This is a fun climb located literally roadside. It follows the obvious crack system up the middle of the face, and being so close to the road you could almost belay from the passenger seat of your new shiny H2...make sure and smile at all the tourists that are creating the traffic jam behind them. I've done this route a few times and always had a couple of cars stop for photos of my friends and I on the route. Maybe give them something to talk about and take a small whipper on purpose (wink, wink).
Protection
.5 - 3 Camalot including the anchor. Descend via the east side of the formation.
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Shipp sewing up roadside
Juan up roadside
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Even though Tucker has done literally hundreds of FAs in the Park, this is NOT one of them. The FA predates Tucker by many years (probably 1st done in the early 1970s).
Oof, 5.7? That hurts. I certainly didn't think it was a solid 5.9, but now your just making me feel bad. Perhaps it's the mentality I have of going up against Josh 5.9s. Fun route at the top, but too short.
My son and I just did this the other day. It protected well and we give it a rating of 5.fun! Easy walkoff, in the shade in the afternoons, close to road, easy to set anchors on top. Only drawback is it is too damned short! Call up the one in charge and request another earthquake!
This route was great! Steep as heck for a 5.9 but the holds are definitely there. No way on the 5.7 idea but I can see how on a strong day it may feel easy. I was pleased with the length but would have loved it to keep going.
Roadside Rock
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