I saw a lot of people tossing themselves at this climb multiple times over the course of an afternoon at Lizard Rock, and amusingly enough, all at different places on the route. The position of the crux will depend upon your climbing strengths and weaknesses.
On the SW face, find a obtuse, rounded corner with a flake just to the left of the bottom of it. This lies 3-4 meters left of the Left Lizard Crack and 1 meter right of Progressive Lizard.
Climb up onto the flake on the left and reach the crack system right. Continue up, eventually going right out of the very shallow corner onto a face, which soon becomes lower angle. Alternatively, we also have climbed up further, continuing in the crack a little longer to the top (same grade). [Edit - This route is the same as the False Cilley Toprope (page 31, Bartlett guide). The boulder start is the crux, while starting on Progressive Lizard to the leftand cutting over makes this 5.10a.]
Protection
thin to 1.5"
Add CommentComments on Lizard In Bondage (aka False Cilley Toprope)
Can't quite interpret TB's description above. I started squarely under the intermittent crack and slid off about a dozen times before finding a combination that worked. Continued up through the pod and exited left. If the landing was bad, I might gives this a 's', but with a very clean landing, it would be hard to get into trouble on this route.
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