Deploy the Aliens! - CC at the crux. Photo by Be...
Description
This route begins left of Fire Or Retire in thin discontinuous cracks. The left crack widens to a finger / hand crack and ends in a large depression. Unprotected 5.10 face climbing leads to a two bolt anchor / rappel station. Crux moves off the deck and at the top.
Protection
Very small TCU's (#00 - #1) or brass down low. Medium cams in the hand crack and a #3 TCU before the runout finish. Two bolt anchor on top.
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By Chris Miller Administrator Dec 2, 2003 rating: 5.10d PG13
An alternative (and better protected) finish you can do is to cut right and top out via Fire Or Retire. A small tricam is handy for the direct finish and although runout the hardest moves come not far above your gear.