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Jam or Slam Rock
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Cranking Skills Or Hospital Bills 
Fire Or Retire 
No Perch is Necessary 
Usual Suspects, The 

The Usual Suspects 

5.11a

   

FA: Chris Miller, Chuck Scott, Loren Scott, Tyler Logan 3/00
New Route: Yes
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.11a [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 60 feet
Views: 51 page views

Submitted By: Murf on Jan 1, 2002


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BETA PHOTO: Jam or Slam from the north showing No Perch Necess...


Description 

Step across a pit to a thin crack, then ascend to the base of the arete. This could be quite difficult if you are short.

Alternately, pull third class moves right of the arete and traverse to the base. Pulling the rope through the draws before the second ties in might be a good idea if you choose this start.

At the arete lay off a shallow crack to begin the route. Thin balancy moves lead past three bolts to jugs over the lip. Short, but the technical moves will keep your interest all the way to the top.


Protection 

3 bolts to a two bolt anchor (all 3/8"). If you do the direct thin crack start, a few pieces in the .5"-1" range.



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By Chris Miller
Administrator
Nov 10, 2003
rating: 5.10d

The first ascent climbed obvious cracks (pro to 2.5") to the rounded buttress/arete. I recall a heel hook around the arete being used to clip a bolt.

By Randy
Apr 3, 2006
rating: 5.11a

Pretty sustained and very engaging climbing.

By Murf
Apr 3, 2006

Edited for rating change ( .10 c/d -> .11a ), Parroted guidebook rating initially.