Nice fist jamming in a clean splitter. Would rate more stars if longer. Sunny.
Located about 50' below and 100' to the right of the start of Run For Your Life.
Starts as hands the quickly moves to cups, fists and even OW for the last few feet. The difficulties last for about 30', then hang a left and scramble up about 20' to the top of the pillar and find an anchor. Make sure the rope runs through the crack to provide directional protection for the 2nd.
Descent: scramble off to the north.
Protection
We did it with one blue Camalot and one #4 Friend but it would be preferable to have a 2nd #4 or a 3.5 Camalot.
Great route, one of the purest cracks in Josh. One has to pay attention with the #4 Camalots. It is easy to place them, walk them and it may lead to multi hour recovery operations. I saw a #4 jammed once and tried to remove it, without luck. Then this weekend, it happened to us. This time, we put more time and effort till we got the dawn piece out. Don't let this embarrassing situation happened to you.
No, I agree. This is one of the most "splitter" cracks the park has to offer; you can talk to someone on the other side of the formation through the crack. It may be short but that doesn't change the fact that this crack is different from most of the cracks in Josh. I invite anyone who disagrees to just slot a jam at the the base of the route and feel the difference.
Don't know about the "hang a left and scramble to top of pillar to find a belay" bit. I belayed where the crack goes horizontal..the walk off is just a few feet right of this and the climbing above (to the top of the pillar) is trivial and short 5-easy slab. Belay where the crack goes horiz takes from 3.5 to 4 camalot. Did this with one 3 camalot, ended up pushing it a ways, ideally take two of 'em. Good rack would be doubles in 3, 3.5, 4 camalot (this would include the belay pieces).