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Gunks West 

5.10b

   

FA: Todd Swain, Thom Scheuer 4/84
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.10b [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 40 feet
Views: 58 page views

Submitted By: Jordan Ramey on Apr 6, 2007


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Daniel Schuerch not quite gaining the crack.


Description 

Clip the bolt from the boulder and make a strenuous move to gain the crack. Follow the crack up and up. I thought it was sandbagged for a 5.10b.


Location 

Descent: once on top head left to Leaping Leana's Bolted rap anchors.


Protection 

1 bolt, pro to 2", gear anchor. Use Leaping Leana's bolted rap anchors to descend.



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By Chris Miller
Administrator
Apr 6, 2007

The single bolt at the start has been replaced and is 3/8".

By Adam Kimmerly
Mar 24, 2008

The crux is the start and feels stout for 10b. It's really tricky to get situated on the obvious slopey foothold at the start - it's too high to just rock over onto it, there are no decent hand holds, and the lower foot I had to use to step up is pretty thin.

Once there, the moves past the bolt aren't as bad, but the potential for a nasty ankle-breaking fall is high as you're pulling into the stance where you're able to place your first piece of gear. Might be worth it to use just a single 'biner on the bolt rather than a draw to shorten the fall as much as possible.