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The Chameleon 

5.12b R

   

FA: (TR) John Bachar, Mike Lechlinksi, 12/79 FL: Dave Mayville, Paul Borne 1989
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.12b [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 100 feet
Views: 97 page views

Submitted By: Drewsky on Feb 10, 2008


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Description 

This amazing line takes the second line of bolts off the ground to the right of Illusion Dweller (the first being old 1/4 inch bolts from an .11d). Tricky and challenging face climbing past five bolts constitutes the technical crux, while the mental crux is 30 feet of unprotected, gritty, flared 5.10+ crack that arches left to join Illusion Dweller before its crux. Shares the Illusion Dweller rappel anchor. A fall from near the end of the crack section would probably prove to be injurious; take heed and place available protection carefully. Someone must follow to clean; descend as for Illusion Dweller WITH AT LEAST A 60M ROPE.


Location 

Approach as for Illusion Dweller; The Chameleon is about 35-40 feet to the right and starts from the ground.


Protection 

Bolts and gear to 2 inches, including small to medium cams (although larger gear may possibly work). Long slings (especially under the Illusion Dweller roof) will be useful to reduce drag from the traverse.