Reaching out for a pinky jam that is just around t...
Description
This is the obvious thin roof crack up the middle of the formation. The main business is a very thin finger crack and hard moves to a lip encounter. The crack opens to hands after pulling the lip. For a few very hard moves under a roof, this one is hard to beat.
Location
Can't miss this one if you get to the Zombie Woof formation.
Protection
Thin to none under the roof. To 3" above the roof. Top rope from medium cams on the summit. You can ascend an easy crack on the south west face to gain the summit (5.8?)
By Russ Walling From: www.FishProducts.com Dec 11, 2006
This route was the location one of the great collapses in my rock climbing history. I got around the lip and was standing above the roof. I had an awkward hand jam that was starting to give me a gobie.... so I jumped off, figuring I would just do it next try since the moves didn't seem that bad. Been thinking about getting back to that spot for 20 years now.....
The moves under the roof are tough and I've seen a few really good climbers never even get going. The initial jams are real shallow and hard to get good enough to start levering out with. As I recall, the lip jam is pretty sinker for fingers.