Tyler Logan on "Not for Loan" (.10b). Photo by Jer...
Description
Scramble up a ramp just right of the start of "Where Eagles Dare" until you reach a crack system beginning over a roof. The rock is a little chossy here but greatly improves once you pull over the roof and start angling up the crack. After about twenty-five feet of crack climbing comparable in steepness and difficulty to that on "Illusion Dweller," you reach a 'V' in the crack system. The original line takes the right crack and makes a long traverse to the same belay as for "Desert Song." Another option is to take the left crack straight up to a ledge, traverse right about six feet to a bolt, and make one or two face moves (.10a) in order to reach a set of anchors on "Where Eagles Dare."
A decent alternative to "Illusion Dweller" if that route is busy.
Location
On the West Face of The Sentinel, right of "Where Eagles Dare." Rappel to descend.
Protection
nuts and cams to 2.5"
Probably a good idea to equalize a "nest" of gear before pulling over the roof as the rock isn't great here and it's a ways to the ground.
By susan peplow From: what day is this? Feb 23, 2007
Randy, is this FA info correct? I thought this was a Charles Cole route.
By Russ Walling From: www.FishProducts.com Feb 24, 2007
Did this one today, 2/24/07, and man... it is sort of a junker, but in a good way. The rock is loose, grainy, and the features are not very inspiring.... but I liked it. Heading up to the Where Eagles Dare anchors is the way to go... clip two very sketch 1/4" bolts as you move up and right... then do a short boulder problem on the face to gain another crappy bolt.... then clip the fresh anchor. You can rap from here with a 50m rope.
Morgan and Zeek did the FA (with aid -- those guys never did things free); Gib Lewis and CC3 did the FFA, 12/79.
By susan peplow From: what day is this? Feb 25, 2007
Thanks Randy, I was just about to email Charles when I saw your reply. I always figured it was a CCIII route because of the name "not for loan" which he would mark on his gear. Russ & I did the route today, it's been on my list for some time. Now it's off the list and unlikely I"ll go back. It's not that it's technically hard -just junk.
The Sentinel
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