Bobby P. moving through the sustained crux section...
Description
This fantastic route is right of the route Where Eagles Dare (5.11+). The first pitch follows a bolt protected right traversing 5.12- crack/seam which eventually swings up to a bolted belay (shared with Desert Song). Pitch two exits from the belay right a few feet then heads up the former aid route now rated 5.12c, to the top for another bolted anchor.
Protection
Bolts,and standard rack for the second pitch (which also has bolts)
The first pitch was originally done as an aid climb called "Sacred Bear" (A3+) which had no bolts but sported a couple of fixed rurps at the start and finish.
The first pitch (5.12b) has nine bolts and can be done as a sport route, although you may wish a medium cam to get to the high first bolt; the second pitch (5.12c) has five bolts and requires some gear.
I appreciate the manner in which the first pitch (solid at 12b) of this route was bolted. You have to make difficult crux moves a considerable distance from the bolts; no faking it! Tread lightly on the loose flake between the 2nd and 3rd bolts.
The Sentinel
RSS Feed
