Climb perfect hand and finger crack that virtually eats gear. 10' from the summit, move 6' left across face to flake and continue to top. Multi-bolt anchor. Single rope rappel to ground.
Protection
Standard rack to 2". If you want to go old school, just take hexes! Three bolt anchor/rap
By Mike Morley Administrator From: Oakland, CA Jun 21, 2002
In regards to my comment regarding just bringing hexes, you'd probably want to throw in a handful of nuts for the crux section.
By Andrew Gram Administrator From: Denver, CO Nov 11, 2002
This climb is brilliant, though I got a grand total of 2 hand jams on it. Lots of thin hands and fingers with a crack protected face climbing crux. Queue up!
By Mike Morley Administrator From: Oakland, CA Dec 11, 2002
Andrew, were you wearing boxing gloves? ;)
By Andrew Gram Administrator From: Denver, CO Dec 13, 2002
My hands are a little larger than average, so I don't get hands until loose 3 friend or tight 3.5 friend. I don't think I ever got a 3 friend into this one, so lots of tight hands for me.
By Mike Morley Administrator From: Oakland, CA Dec 13, 2002
You must hate Incredible Hand Crack at Indian Creek! For me, it doesn't get much better!
By 5.10b4me From: Alhambra, California May 3, 2003
just did this again on May 1. last time I climbed it was around 1983. no doubt about it this is a great crack climb.
Did the direct start which definitely increased the difficulty to a solid 8. Probably the best route I've done in J-Tree at the grade. You've got to love the nut placements that pop up at you when you start to sweat - super bomber and right before or after cruxlike sections. Fun!!!
This thing ate so much gear I was sorry to see it come to an end. I think I placed 11 pieces and 9 of them nuts. Stellar climb, probably best saved for a less busy weekday if you have the chance as I did.
I lead this a few weeks back and forgot to ad my two cents worth... I agree that is it a very, nice route, that protects extreamly well. Placing those damned nuts was a ball! Hell, you could just about do the route with any type of gear.......or no gear at all! It's all there for the taking and a deffinate 'Must do' in my eyes. And though it is so popular, it is very often there for the taking year round.........
CLASSIC!!! Good jams, locks, and face holds where you need them. Excellent feet all around the crack, and this thing eats gear, especially nuts. Face section did not seem difficult, but this will depend on how early or late you leave the crack. Rap bolts are good as of 12/28. Excellent route, but extremely popular. Take a number, but wait out the line - it's worth it!
By Adam Stackhouse Administrator From: Escondido, Ca Mar 20, 2006 rating: 5.8
The move near the top where one goes left can be protected by a bomber #11 BD nut.
This route is one of my top five favorites at Jtree. Great quality all the way through. Much better then Illusion dweller in my opinion.
By Karsten From: Reno, NV Oct 26, 2007 rating: 5.8
The first ascencionists walked in and couldn't believe this fine line hadn't been done. They were so excited they ran back to their camp grabbed their gear and ran back to score the first ascent.
What an absolute joy of a route. I can't recall having that much fun on such a beautiful hand and finger crack! It only has one weakness...it's over too quickly.
Hidden Tower
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