Mountain Project: Climbing Leave It To Beaver (aka The Beaver)

FA:	Dave Evans & Jim Angione, 1/78; FFA: (TR) John Bachar 3/78, FL: J. Bachar 1979
Type:	Trad
Consensus:	5.12a [details]
Length:	1 pitch, 70 feet
Views:	1,652 page views

Submitted By: Chris Miller on Jan 1, 2005

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You and this route | Other Opinions (8)

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Description

This climb is the centerpiece of Sports Challenge Rock and is located two climbs to the right of Clean And Jerk (5.10c) just right of a large pine tree.

Boulder up a short face to a sloping ledge and from there make a series of technical, strenuous moves up an overhanging wall past a flake to a horizontal. From there the climb continues up steep rock past more horizontals to the top.

Usually (and easily) top-roped this climb is a great climb to pump out on, as it is a far cry from the usual slab paddling found in the Park. This climb makes a great lead/workout climb for those so inclined. A great climb on a great wall, the only thing it lacks is distance from the crowds.

Protection

A good selection of wires and cams to 3" will see you through to the top. Pro is good, but strenuous to place (especially onsight).

Add Comment Comments on Leave It To Beaver (aka The Beaver)

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By Randy
Mar 19, 2003
rating: 5.12a

Robert, nice photos of the Beav...

One of the best routes in the Park. 5 of 5 stars.

By Anonymous Coward
Oct 23, 2004

Where does the name "Leave it to Beaver come from"? I've heard some interesting theories.

By Randy
Oct 24, 2004
rating: 5.12a

Short answer:

Leave It To Beaver is named after a 1960s TV series entitled: "Leave It To Beaver". It probably still is in reruns on Nick At Nite or somewhere in Saskatoon or Nagpur.

By Anonymous Coward
Oct 25, 2004

I thought that it was because you can see the outline of a woman's body on the wall. Where the V-slot is is where a womans hoo-hoo would be.

By Gary Kleiger
Oct 29, 2004

I read in the latest Rock and Ice (Ethics issue) that someone chipped footholds into the Beaver. The quote came from Bachar. I have never been on this route, but can anyone confirm this? Man I hope that is not the case!

By Randy
Oct 29, 2004
rating: 5.12a

Chipped footholds is BS.

By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
From: Escondido, Ca
Mar 13, 2006
rating: 5.12a

Was Bachar's solo ascent the FL indicated in the route's description?

By Randy
Mar 14, 2006
rating: 5.12a

No. Bachar TR'd it free first. Lead it later and still later free soloed it.

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