Listed in the Vogel guide as a 5.7, many an inspired young leader has come face to face with mortality with the opening moves of this route. The thin starting moves about 15 feet off the deck from a boulder, with somewhat tricky pro will give even steady 5.9 leaders pause.
Begin off a block slightly left of mid-formation. After the thin entry moves, continue up the right leaning hand crack to the top.
Ha! I remember this climb. Is'nt it so typical to show up at JTree with high hopes of bagging some sick hard lead, only to get beat down on the warm-up. Yea, it was hard, I was scared. Prolly bouldered the rest of the day.
It's good to see the upgrading to 5.9! Having just climbed it (Feb. 03) thinking it was a 5.7, I felt quite sketched out. Big sandbag! Besides the "thin" start it is somewhat sustained and awkward.
Are you people getting soft? I led this wearing cowboy boots with a head full of blotter acid. I never could climb anything harder than 5.7 on a good day.
Lets set the record straight. It was boxing gloves and roller skates and 5.7 in his wildest dreams.
By Richard Adler From: Bend, Oregon Oct 28, 2004 rating: 5.7
Wow, a Howard King sighting on a climbing web site. Did you misread this address, Howard???? This Climbingjtree.com not Birdingjtree.com. I'm gonna have to add this to my State and County lists.
And yes, I thought Capt. Kronos was hard for 5.7!!! Probably cuz I did it WITHOUT the cowboy boots and blotter!!!!
And Last year I saw the film "Captain Kronos, Vampire Killer." It's as bad as the route!!!
This is one of those courses that probably won't be quite as much fun the second time around, because it won't make you think as much about how to do the start. A good pitch.
Enjoyed this climb alot have to return to do Jerry Brown.
By Andy Laakmann Site Landlord From: Jackson Hole, WY Apr 17, 2008 rating: 5.9+
Really good route! Deserves more stars than it gets. Once you pass the face move down low, it is continously enjoyable jamming all the way to the top. The face move about 15' off the ground protects perfectly with a pink tricam. You do have one of those on your rack don't you? :) I brought a #4 camalot and it went in perfectly at a wider spot.