This route has a rather difficult start (crux) for a 5.9+ rated climb. The lower section of crack does not protect well and is a bit awkward. Upon setting your first solid piece (right where a great finger hold is) cast off for the fun stuff. Make sure it is solid as hell because to pull means to deck rock below, not dirt). HB offsets ruled the rock! After pulling the crux, the route eases up considerably.....With the other routes near, west facing rock, rare to find people there....recommended!
Protection
small nuts/cams (offset nut works great but a regular nut works as well) for the crux at the start to a couple of mid size pieces after. No rap anchors. Build by slinging or use pro. Short route so minimal pro is all that is needed.
The lower pro kept popping each time we spoke above a whisper so we strung all the points together and hung the second rack on them-- a bit irritating.
Way to hard at the start to be any kind of 5.9. I started to the right of the boulder at the bottom which adds one extra hard move to the route and my buddy started off the boulder to the left but found the climbing to still be 5.9+++. Gear is an issue in the beginning. I got a green alien in just above the first good finger lock above. Glad I didn't fall...
The Wailing Wall
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