Home - Destinations - People - Partners - Forum - Photos - What's New
 ADVANCED
The Hidden Cliff
Show routes:
Select route...
Against The Grain 
Bikini Beach 
Bikini Whale 
G-String 
Railer 

Bikini Whale 

5.12a/b

   

FA: (TR) Antoine & Marc LeMenestrel 1984, FL: Kurt Smith 12/87
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.12b [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 80 feet
Views: 322 page views

Submitted By: Randy on Jan 1, 2002


Add Photo  Add Comment 

You and this route  |  Other Opinions (4)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
 Printer Friendly View

BETA PHOTO: Bikini Whale


Description 

This justifiably popular climb lies about 25 feet from the very end of the narrow corridor on the right. It and Railer, Bikini Beach, and G-String all start at the same spot (and share the 1st 2 bolts).

This 5 bolt, overhanging face route heads straight up face and seam. Many shorter climbers will want to stick-clip the 1st bolt as the move getting to it is a bit reachy.

The powerful "lock-off" crux is past the 1st bolt, though the pump factor makes the moves past the last (5th) bolt seem pretty hard too. This climb is easily (and often) top roped (bring slings to extend rope over the edge).


Protection 

5 bolts, 2 bolt anchor (extension sling needed to lower or TR)



Add Comment Comments on Bikini Whale
Show which comments
By Chris Miller
Administrator
Nov 11, 2003
rating: 5.12b

Originally bolted on lead with only three bolts by Kurt Smith (two more bolts were later added with his permission).

This excellent route has a powerful boulder problem crux passing the first bolt, an easier middle section and another crux (5.11+) sequence at the last bolt. The route finishes in a hand crack after the last bolt (though listed on this website as a sport route a single piece of pro may be desired if leading). Easily four stars out of five.

By Tyler Logan
From: Running Springs
Apr 2, 2008

Anybody with a recent send of this route want to comment on its grade compared to other Josh .12a routes?

By Chris Miller
Administrator
Apr 4, 2008
rating: 5.12b

This route is not 5.12a (consensus on this site is 5.12b) and features a very powerful crux which is out-of-character for the average JT route of the grade.

Rumor has it some broken holds at the crux may have made this harder recently, but this is as yet unsubstantiated.