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Ball Bearing 

5.10a

   

FA: unknown
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.9+ [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 100 feet
Views: 579 page views

Submitted By: Mike Morley on Sep 26, 2003


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Ivana at the crux.


Description 

Ball Bearing lies on the East Face of The Sentinel. Start left of Fote Hog (5.7) in left-trending finger crack that protects nicely with smaller size cams. Move right along horizontal crack and gain another left-trending crack. When this crack runs out just below the anchors, make a couple of spicy face moves to the 2-bolt anchor. Either rap from here (~100') as we did or continue up second pitch which apparently isn't too great. Fun climb with good gear except for last 15' to the anchors (crux). Fairly sustained.


Protection 

Nothing bigger than #2 Camalot. Double set of TCU's are helpful.



Add Photo Photos of Ball Bearing
Ball Bearing, 5.10a.  Under the roof are the chains ©

BETA PHOTO: Ball Bearing, 5.10a. Under the roof are the chain...

Unknown climbers on the second pitch of Ball Bearing (5.10a).

Unknown climbers on the second pitch of Ball Beari...

Al Swanson on "Ball Bearing".<br />Photo by Blitzo.

Al Swanson on "Ball Bearing".
Photo by Blitzo.



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By Murf
Oct 24, 2003

I think the 2nd pitch is pretty good. Getting through the left leaning roof/crack just out of the belay is challenging and just a bit spicy. Towards the top I have gone left both times on the route. You have to extend everything to avoid horrendous drag, and there are some interesting moves. In retrospect I wonder if the right would be a better finish, but I haven't done it.

By Art Morimitsu
Administrator
From: Huntington Beach, Ca
Oct 24, 2003

I agree that the moves off the belay on the second pitch are spicy. if you come off you fall directly on top of your belayer. I finished to the left and don't remember any hard moves or the slightest bit of rope drag.

By tom donnelly
Nov 8, 2005
rating: 5.10a

First pitch is 5.9 3 starsSecond pitch is 10a spicy.Very shady & cold route.

By Tony Bubb
From: Boulder, CO
Jan 9, 2006
rating: 5.10a

Great route, and one of the longest routes in the area. The first pitch is a pure joy and the second is almost as good. I thought the moves up onto the shelf were a little weird - I was prepared to really tweek in some pro above the bad nut that was obvious, but then I saw an inobvious move to get up on the ramp that was more like 5.8 than 5.10 to perform - so I didn't bother. Stop there and look around and it's no big deal. Mind your slings low on the climb and the drag up top is not too bad.

By tony grice
May 2, 2006

Awsome route!!!!!! pro was good, moves fun.A gimmie first pitch.Second p. a balancy adventure, I blind placed a .5 for the first really solid piece, you can get a small piece just off the belay

By Dr. Evil
From: Boulder, CO
May 11, 2006
rating: 5.10a

Beautiful climb. Both pitches are well worth doing.

By Edward Jenner
Nov 1, 2006
rating: 5.8+

Do both pitches, or as one pitch (double ropes helpful).

Definitely on of Josh's easy 10a's - more like 8+ by Eldo standards, but very fun.

Also starting in the left crack (as in the photo above), rather than the one marked in the guidebook seems like the nicest way to go.

By MJW
May 4, 2008

First pitch is barely 5.9 with outstanding pro. Bring 4-5 long runners up with you. Got to go 2-3 moves above your gear to get to the belay. Second pitch is 10a...little funky and good!!

By Kyle P.
From: Lakewood, Co
May 4, 2008

My bro Nick A. and I intended on climbing Fote Hog which was listed in our "Trad Climbing Guide to J. Tree, 5.5 to 5.9" Fote looked run out. Maybe not, but we looked up at the kick ass crack system that turned out to be Ball Bearing. What a surprise. Butts kicked on the first cold day attempt. Success on the second. An amazing route with lots of gear ops. and clean rock. Face holds show when the cracks end. Good times.