Ball Bearing lies on the East Face of The Sentinel. Start left of Fote Hog (5.7) in left-trending finger crack that protects nicely with smaller size cams. Move right along horizontal crack and gain another left-trending crack. When this crack runs out just below the anchors, make a couple of spicy face moves to the 2-bolt anchor. Either rap from here (~100') as we did or continue up second pitch which apparently isn't too great. Fun climb with good gear except for last 15' to the anchors (crux). Fairly sustained.
Protection
Nothing bigger than #2 Camalot. Double set of TCU's are helpful.
I think the 2nd pitch is pretty good. Getting through the left leaning roof/crack just out of the belay is challenging and just a bit spicy. Towards the top I have gone left both times on the route. You have to extend everything to avoid horrendous drag, and there are some interesting moves. In retrospect I wonder if the right would be a better finish, but I haven't done it.
By Art Morimitsu Administrator From: Huntington Beach, Ca Oct 24, 2003
I agree that the moves off the belay on the second pitch are spicy. if you come off you fall directly on top of your belayer. I finished to the left and don't remember any hard moves or the slightest bit of rope drag.
First pitch is 5.9 3 starsSecond pitch is 10a spicy.Very shady & cold route.
By Tony B From: Boulder, CO Jan 9, 2006 rating: 5.10a
Great route, and one of the longest routes in the area. The first pitch is a pure joy and the second is almost as good. I thought the moves up onto the shelf were a little weird - I was prepared to really tweek in some pro above the bad nut that was obvious, but then I saw an inobvious move to get up on the ramp that was more like 5.8 than 5.10 to perform - so I didn't bother. Stop there and look around and it's no big deal. Mind your slings low on the climb and the drag up top is not too bad.
Awsome route!!!!!! pro was good, moves fun.A gimmie first pitch.Second p. a balancy adventure, I blind placed a .5 for the first really solid piece, you can get a small piece just off the belay
By Dr. Evil From: Boulder, CO May 11, 2006 rating: 5.10a
Beautiful climb. Both pitches are well worth doing.
First pitch is barely 5.9 with outstanding pro. Bring 4-5 long runners up with you. Got to go 2-3 moves above your gear to get to the belay. Second pitch is 10a...little funky and good!!
My bro Nick A. and I intended on climbing Fote Hog which was listed in our "Trad Climbing Guide to J. Tree, 5.5 to 5.9" Fote looked run out. Maybe not, but we looked up at the kick ass crack system that turned out to be Ball Bearing. What a surprise. Butts kicked on the first cold day attempt. Success on the second. An amazing route with lots of gear ops. and clean rock. Face holds show when the cracks end. Good times.
By Pat C From: Honolulu,HI... was in Indio May 3, 2009
This is quite an exciting warm up for a 5.10 leader. Moves are tricky, but it's more a mental 10a than a physical 10a, if ya know what i mean.