This enjoyable trad climb on solid brown rock begins in a very thin crack about 30' up from Captain Kronos. The crack becomes progressively wider after going over a small roof. Pro is bomber and easy to place.
Protection
Small to medium stoppers, small to medium TCU's and a few cams to 3.5". Small to medium TCU's or cams for an anchor. Walk off to the south (towards Sports Challenge Rock) for the descent.
Don't traverse all the way left under the route. Found it to be a little harder than anticipated. Keep aiming straight up from the initial seam.
By Andy Laakmann Site Landlord From: Jackson Hole, WY Apr 17, 2008 rating: 5.10b
This is one pumpy little devil! Don't make the mistake I did trying to fiddle gear in at the roof. Just stand up a little higher and you can get in a bomber nut. Unfortunately, there are a few loose blocks in the crack up higher that you might want to pro behind.
Great climb. 10b, but pumpy for the grade IMO.
By pointy From: at large Nov 17, 2008 rating: 5.10b
I second the previous post about trying to get gear at the roof. Much better to get up high and get a good nut or cam. This climb has got some real fun moves, but it might not be a great choice for budding 10b leaders.