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The Hidden Cliff
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Against The Grain 
Bikini Beach 
Bikini Whale 
G-String 
Railer 

G-String 

5.13d

   

FA: Scott Cosgrove, 1991.
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.13d [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 70 feet
Views: 304 page views

Submitted By: Randy on Jan 1, 2002


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BETA PHOTO: G-String


Description 

To my knowledge, this route has not seen a second ascent.

Begin up Bikini Whale, then after reaching the "rail" above the 2nd bolt, head left to a series of 5 bolts that protect extremely thin and powerful layback moves up a tiny offset seam. Finish as per Bikini Whale.


Protection 

7 bolts, 2 bolt anchor.



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By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
From: Escondido, Ca
Jun 11, 2004
rating: 5.13d

While yoyo-ing the "Whale" our group of five stood in amazement as we tried to fake our ourselves into thinking that "holds" really exist on this cruxy route. The line is evident, but oh so thin.

By Anonymous Coward
Aug 26, 2004

Is this really the hardest route in Jtree. I thought there was a 5.14 there.

By Chris Miller
Administrator
Aug 26, 2004

This may not be THE hardest route, but it certainly is one of the hardest and remains unrepeated. The reported "long reaches between holds" are characteristic of Scott's routes, but it's interesting to note that Cosgrove's Integrity (5.14a) was repeated by Leavitt, who also established Dihedron (5.14a) the other "hardest" route.

Here's a partial list of some of the harder routes in the Park - Integrity (5.14a), Dihedron (5.14a), G-String (5.13d), The New Deal (5.13d), Mamba (5.13d), La Machine (5.13d).

It's intersting to note that while there are many difficult routes at Josh, most see little to no action. Some routes have seen no repeats while others have had only a handfull.

By Anonymous Coward
Aug 27, 2004

Hmmm. That is interesting. Maybe Jtree isn't a common destination for the hardest of the hard. Perhaps they are moredrawn to the overhung limestone areas? Seems like Sharma or Caldwell have probably spent time out there though.

By Chris Miller
Administrator
Aug 27, 2004

Perhaps AC, although I do recall a certain "rock star", who fresh from sending some 5.14's on limestone got totally schooled on Bikini Whale...maybe it's was reachy for him? Or just a high-gravity day? Perhaps a trip to the nearby Integratron to recharge was in order?

By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
From: Escondido, Ca
Feb 24, 2006
rating: 5.13d

It took Cosgrove three weeks just to work out the moves on this thing. It's 13a just to the crux section involving a (typical for the Coz) long pull from a two-finger crimp to hideous (being nice) slopers...9 bolts and insane.