To my knowledge, this route has not seen a second ascent.
Begin up Bikini Whale, then after reaching the "rail" above the 2nd bolt, head left to a series of 5 bolts that protect extremely thin and powerful layback moves up a tiny offset seam. Finish as per Bikini Whale.
By Adam Stackhouse Administrator From: Escondido, Ca Jun 11, 2004 rating: 5.13d
While yoyo-ing the "Whale" our group of five stood in amazement as we tried to fake our ourselves into thinking that "holds" really exist on this cruxy route. The line is evident, but oh so thin.
This may not be THE hardest route, but it certainly is one of the hardest and remains unrepeated. The reported "long reaches between holds" are characteristic of Scott's routes, but it's interesting to note that Cosgrove's Integrity (5.14a) was repeated by Leavitt, who also established Dihedron (5.14a) the other "hardest" route.
Here's a partial list of some of the harder routes in the Park - Integrity (5.14a), Dihedron (5.14a), G-String (5.13d), The New Deal (5.13d), Mamba (5.13d), La Machine (5.13d).
It's interesting to note that while there are many difficult routes at Josh most see little to no action. Some routes have seen no repeats while others have had only a few.
Hmmm. That is interesting. Maybe Jtree isn't a common destination for the hardest of the hard. Perhaps they are moredrawn to the overhung limestone areas? Seems like Sharma or Caldwell have probably spent time out there though.
Perhaps AC, although I do recall a certain "rock star", who fresh from sending some 5.14's on limestone got totally schooled on Bikini Whale...maybe it's was reachy for him? Or just a high-gravity day? Perhaps a trip to the nearby Integratron to recharge was in order?
By Adam Stackhouse Administrator From: Escondido, Ca Feb 24, 2006 rating: 5.13d
It took Cosgrove three weeks just to work out the moves on this thing. It's 13a just to the crux section involving a (typical for the Coz) long pull from a two-finger crimp to hideous (being nice) slopers...9 bolts and insane.
Word on the street is that holds have broken. It is a fairly crumbly part of Josh, so this is likely. Integrity is a better quality route, which is probably why it's seen repeats. But Cos is tall and did say that the crux here was long, so maybe that's why as well. He once told me that he thought 13d/14a was appropriate, so maybe it should get the latter until repeated.
Does Mamba exist? I think the Snake Pit is gone. And what about Stingray? I think it's confirmed at the grade.
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