This popular sport route is the furthest right bolted route on the South Face of Turtle Rock. It lies about 100+ feet right of Desert Shield. This is the right-hand of 2 routes that begin here (and share the anchor).
Easy climbing leads to a crack-like feature arching up and right. Above, clip a bolt, then move left then up (crux) to the last bolt. A tricky move or two up and left to some pockets/crack keep it interesting to the end.
Protection
Bolts to sport anchor. Draws are all you need. To set a TR, climb up and left to above anchors (belay probably needed).
By Adam Stackhouse Administrator From: Escondido, Ca Jun 27, 2004 rating: 5.12a
Great route on mostly great rock. We set it up as a TR, but plenty leadable. As said, easier climbing leads to a nice, asthetic series of moves 3/4 the way up. In the afternoon shade, the route is a nice escape from the sun.
This a fantastic, route, very steep and athletic by jtree standards. Of course it can be led, it's a sport route! Definitely cruxy, and while it may not be harder than every jtree 12a, I feel 12b is a more fair rating.
By Tyler Logan From: Running Springs Mar 24, 2008 rating: 5.12b
Seeing as this route recently celebrated its twentieth anniversary, perhaps it should be gifted with some new hardware.
Turtle Rock
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