This is a powerful, endurance route, with some pretty hard moves. With the exception of a knee bar near the beginning of the route, there are no rests to speak of. The technical crux is near the bottom (this has gotten harder since part of a rail broke a few years back); though just linking all the moves together to the final jug is the real test.
This is not a soft 5.13a. It might seem harder if you climb in areas like Red Rocks, but more in line if you climb in places like Rifle. It is definately a harder tic than Father Figure.
This route is on less than stellar rock and has been falling apart since before Scott even red-pointed it. Glue has been used to reinforce several holds (e.g.: the large flakes on the upper section) and the key right-hand hold on the technical crux broke off (while still a project) and was re-glued on by Scott (I believe).
The above disclosure is made because there have been comments made on this site about glue on this route.
PLEASE NOTE: If the idea of using reinforced or re-glued holds is repugnent to you (it is now illegal in the Park, but was legal at the time this route was done), just do not do this route. Do not get high and mighty and harm this climb; it has seen at least a hundred ascents and is well settled classic. No one is gluing routes anymore in the Park, so there is no point to be made. Harming of glued routes only creates an unsightly mess, gives climbers a very bad name with the Park Service, and would be subject to prosecution for defacement. Enough said.
Protection
Seven bolts to sport anchors. Bring draws. It is possible to use a rope to then reach the anchors from the top.
I've heard tale of a completely manufactured hold on Desert Shield ... does anyone know if this is true or not? Just curious, as my sorry ass isn't going to be going anywhere near that route ;)
There are no manufactured holds on Desert Shield, but glue was used (on FA) to reinforce flakes and reglue a hold. See full route description for full beta.
Thanks for the history of the route... I really enjoy such stuff, it's awesome to have you and many others contributing here :) While I'm not a big fan of glue I certainly am not out doing anything about it.
For a route that required glue and is described as falling apart since it was first bolted, it does seem strange that it receives so many stars. I'm sure the moves are hard and very cool, and obviously the line is consistently steep without any ledges breaking up the action (atypical for Josh) but since when does that define "classic line"?
Turtle Rock
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