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Jerry Brown 

Captain Kronos 

5.9 R

   

FA: Howard King, Rob Fainberg, 1977
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.9- [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 70 feet
Views: 227 page views

Submitted By: Murf on Jan 1, 2002


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BETA PHOTO: Kaptain Cronos


Description 



Listed in the Vogel guide as a 5.7, many an inspired young leader has come face to face with mortality with the opening moves of this route. The thin starting moves about 15 feet off the deck from a boulder, with somewhat tricky pro will give even steady 5.9 leaders pause.

Begin off a block slightly left of mid-formation. After the thin entry moves, continue up the right leaning hand crack to the top.

Descend to the climbers right.


Protection 

Standard rack, small to start



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Comments displayed oldest to newest — Skip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Apr 17, 2008
By RTM
Jan 30, 2003

Ha! I remember this climb. Is'nt it so typical to show up at JTree with high hopes of bagging some sick hard lead, only to get beat down on the warm-up. Yea, it was hard, I was scared. Prolly bouldered the rest of the day.

By Anonymous Coward
Feb 26, 2003

It's good to see the upgrading to 5.9! Having just climbed it (Feb. 03) thinking it was a 5.7, I felt quite sketched out. Big sandbag! Besides the "thin" start it is somewhat sustained and awkward.

By Tyler Logan
From: Running Springs
Nov 11, 2003

More comparable to Jerry Brown (at .10b) than to most 5.7s, in my opinion.

By Howard King
Oct 27, 2004

Are you people getting soft? I led this wearing cowboy boots with a head full of blotter acid. I never could climb anything harder than 5.7 on a good day.

By Robert Fainberg
Oct 27, 2004

Lets set the record straight. It was boxing gloves and roller skates and 5.7 in his wildest dreams.

By Richard Adler
From: Bend, Oregon
Oct 28, 2004
rating: 5.7

Wow, a Howard King sighting on a climbing web site. Did you misread this address, Howard???? This Climbingjtree.com not Birdingjtree.com. I'm gonna have to add this to my State and County lists.

And yes, I thought Capt. Kronos was hard for 5.7!!! Probably cuz I did it WITHOUT the cowboy boots and blotter!!!!

And Last year I saw the film "Captain Kronos, Vampire Killer." It's as bad as the route!!!

hehehehehe

-r-

By Woody Stark
Nov 29, 2004

A good route but, curiously, more difficult than Brownian Motion (10a) next door.

By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
From: Escondido, Ca
Jan 28, 2006
rating: 5.9

What a slug in the face Joshua Tree climbing was when we did this in 1989...5.7? Wow...what a way to introduce someone to Jtree trad....hahahaha

By joe-boo-boo
Mar 19, 2007

Green metolious can be place off the block in a shallow horizontail. You can then start from the begining or just go from the block.

By Joe Keyser
Mar 21, 2007

This is one of those courses that probably won't be quite as much fun the second time around, because it won't make you think as much about how to do the start. A good pitch.

By armando fimbrez
From: rancho cucamonga
Feb 27, 2008

Enjoyed this climb alot have to return to do Jerry Brown.

By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Jackson Hole, WY
Apr 17, 2008
rating: 5.9+

Really good route! Deserves more stars than it gets. Once you pass the face move down low, it is continously enjoyable jamming all the way to the top. The face move about 15' off the ground protects perfectly with a pink tricam. You do have one of those on your rack don't you? :) I brought a #4 camalot and it went in perfectly at a wider spot.