Start left of a large tree. Stiff, thin moves right from the start lead to a stance below a roof. Jam through the roof (crux) and head left into a wider crack. Fist jams in the wide section lead up and out.
While I'm told that many feel the roof is the crux, the starting moves cannot be ignored. This climb has something for all hand sizes and should not be missed.
The descent is the only negative about this route. Descend via the climber's left. Loosen your shoes for the jump, your toes will thank you!
Protection
Good gear distribution as the climb starts thin and goes through just about all sizes.
The photo of the cliff on page 180 (1992 guide) was taken of the FA (I think it is Perry in the photo). Rob's last name is Raker; both he and well known Canadian climber Perry Beckham can be seen on page 179. Perry is the one pointing to that sandbag Poodle Woof.
You can avoid the jump move on the walkoff/downclimb by downclimbing a low angle handcrack just before reaching the jump. Both ways will put you at an easy foot and back chimney that reaches the ground. The jump looks a little intimidating and I busted up a heel on it with a less than perfect landing, so would recommend the handcrack (or jumping it in your approach shoes).
Very hard route. The crux for me was the start. The the rest of the climb was a workout all the way to the top. The wide section was just a bit to big for my fist, so an arm bar worked for me. Very steep and overhanging. Once on top, it's natural gear for anchor. The descent was difficult. We chimney climbed down on the right side of the route. Then slung our rope around a boulder and rapped the rest of the way to the ground. We retrieved our rope with out a problem. Perhaps a rappel station would be added on top for safe return to the ground?
By Adam Stackhouse Administrator From: Escondido, Ca Jun 16, 2008
Miles Of Piles Rock - West Face
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