This climbs the first easy looking crack right of the roofy area under a notch in the top of the formation. The first 10 feet are the crux - be careful mantling to get to the first gear placement. After pulling past the crux move on a good fingerlock, easy fun 5.6 jug hauling with bomber stoppers leads to a good ledge where a natural gear belay can be set. Scramble up and left to chains to rap or scramble off. This ledge can be reached with some exposure to set a TR, but this is an excellent beginners lead requiring only a set of stoppers.
The Vogel guidebook calls this 5.9 but it is a one move wonder, and that move didn't feel any harder than 5.8 Mostly fun 5.6
Protection
Stoppers, maybe tricams or small cams in the horizontal near the start.
The route might seem to end at the extreme left of a large ledge. Keep going! One can milk out a few more moves by climbing the face and/or outside corner of the boulder-like rock to the left.
Can't say that I agree with this being a one move wonder - this route had me thinking about my placements all the way up. Not difficult but I think a little more sustained than 5.6. Either way, great climb, fun lead!
The Thin Wall
RSS Feed
