Lori learning what jamming is all about on Leaping...
Description
Follow the directions to reach the Locomotion Rock and settle into the niche on its West side. At the far north end of the rock there are two offset hand cracks that go from near the ground, up and left to the left hand side of the top of the rock. Grain Dance is a TR problem between Jumping Jehosephat to the left, and Leaping Leana, to the right.
Move up to reach the main crack. There are a few ways to accomplish this, and the further right you start, the harder it seems. If approaching the main crack from straight up or from the right, this might have some ankle-twisting potential at 5.8+. Approach from slightly left, and keep the grade easier. The beginning of this route, in my frank opinion, made it harder than Jumping Jehosephat. Climb up to reach said crack, then follow really great jams and locks to the top of the rock. Once you are in the main crack the protection is stellar, but the offset leans just far enough over to make it a little hard to get in for some people.
There are rap anchors [replaced 2/16/01 - ed.] just above this route.
Protection
This climb protects well on a set of cams. New leaders might appreciate doubles in the hand-size range.
Try it with the "leap" down and across the trench. We've conned unsuspecting victims into doing this on a TR. It's suprisingly easy to "stick" It would be a pretty sick lead that way though!
I did the 5.8+ start thinking it was 5.6 (I was sandbagged) and the pro was solid. Once pulling the move, there is poor or no pro until you reach the crack. The slab section is low angled and lowers the grade and eases the nerves but be aware, you can deck if you fall here. Solid gear to the top. Rack: .5" - 3". A few extra 3" would help.
By 5.10b4me From: Alhambra, California Feb 18, 2004
The start to the right did have some pretty technical climbing for a 5.6, but it will take pro in between the bomber hand jams to help out with those dicey lower moves.
Yeah, not a 5.6. We took a beginner here and it wasn't so cool to try and get her through the first 20 feet. The rest of the climb could fall into the 5.6 range but I'd say 5.7 for the upper crack. Great anchors on top!
By mmurduff From: Foothill Ranch, CA Oct 16, 2005 rating: 5.7
Although the route seems easy, the little to very few foot holds for your left foot make this climb very interesting. Excellent practice for right hand jams! Great anchors and solid gear in the crack. Used a small tri-cam (pink) near the bottom before reaching the crack. Nut placements were few, tri-cams worked better, and cams worked best for this parallel crack.
Only 5.6 if you start way left. Starting straight on, or 5 feet from either way is definitely harder and a tad spicy. I got a purple camalot in, but then ran it to the crack. Possible ground fall below the crack, but not enough to garnish an R/S rating. Once you hit the crack, the gear and jams are excellent. I got worried towards the top, as the crack widens, but the rap bolts allow you to anchor without gear. Beginning to intermediate leaders will want a 3.5 or 4 towards the top. Rap bolts are good as of 12/28/05.
By Adam Stackhouse Administrator From: Escondido, Ca Mar 20, 2006 rating: 5.7
Another overly pursued route because of its grade.
I haven't seen too many 5.6 handcracks, this was a fun one. I don't really remember the opening moves out of the pit being hard, maybe one mildly strenuous one? I thought the first two moves in Josh don't count? hah! If you've got your rope up, TRing grain dance to the left is definitely worthwhile.
By Brett Brotherton From: Arvada, CO Nov 29, 2008 rating: 5.8+ R
As of 11/28/08 there are two solid bolts up there with rap rings. I definitely agree with the 5.8 rating for the bottom part and felt the crack was harder than 5.6 as well. If it is 5.6 it is a rather strenuous 5.6. Not recommended for 5.6 leaders at all. The bottom part was super run out. I placed a green camalot and then went jumped over to the left crack from the ledge in the pit. There is a perfect jam in the right slanting crack however it was in the only spot I could find a good gear placement so I couldn't use it. It was pretty solid and held a couple small falls while I figured out the bottom section.
By dcgusto97 From: Palm Desert, CA Mar 29, 2009 rating: 5.9-
Okay, I got worked on this route. I'm not too sure if it was poor technique or what, but that bottom felt easily like 5.8+ to 5.9 (IMO) so any new 5.6 leaders may want to pass despite the temptation of rap anchors. Solid crack climbing once you get there that protects well. A nice area, not too populated on a weekend.
Yea, the start is not 5.6 if you start below the crack, but it is fun. Climb up to the ledge, stick in sketchy pro, then do some slab moves to get up and over towards the crack. Rest of the crack is a breeze throwing in some right hand jams with left hands on the wall occasionally. Protection is bomber. Once you are up at the top hook to the rings and you are set.
Last climbing a week or two ago, and everything looked good to me.
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