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Houser Buttress Area
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Dummy's Delight 

5.9

   

FA: Randy Leavitt and Mike Waugh, 1978
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.9+ [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 80 feet
Views: 497 page views

Submitted By: Chris Miller on Jul 13, 2002


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You and this route  |  Other Opinions (17)
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Unknown climber nears the end of the undercling.


Description 

This attractive crack is located on the narrow east face of Houser Buttress and requires a bit of scrambling to reach the base. From the base of Puss N' Boots (5.11b/c) head right, turn the corner and then up boulders to an alcove at the base of the route.

Fun jamming and liebacking are to be had on this route with the crux being a bulge partway up where you must jam your hands and smear your feet. At the top set an anchor just below the top and belay; to descend walk right (east) and rap from bolts atop Lucky Lady with a single rope.

Yet another great route in an area stacked with classics; done in conjunction with several of the others in the area it makes for an excellent half to all day destination. Be warned though that this area is extremely popular, so plan accordingly if your route of choice is taken.


Protection 

Gear to 3.5"



Add Photo Photos of Dummy's Delight
"Dummy's Delight" climbs the right-arching crack.<br />Photo by Blitzo.

BETA PHOTO: "Dummy's Delight" climbs the right-arching crack.
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By Kevin Currigan
From: Lakewood
Feb 16, 2004

Starts easy with some big gear then gets into the meat of the matter with medium size cams and nuts. I think I also used the #s 9 and 10 BD hexes. Great climb; burly!

By Bo Johnston
Feb 22, 2006
rating: 5.9+

Wow! This route is way Classic! It doesn't look like much from the ground but when you get into it, the jams are crazy cool keep you pumped for more.

By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Jackson Hole, WY
Apr 8, 2006
rating: 5.10a

Hard and awkward for the grade.

By Russ Walling
From: www.FishProducts.com
Nov 10, 2006
rating: 5.9

Always liked this one. Instead of using the crack for your hands, you can do a walk the plank type thing in the middle of the route. Spicy!

By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: La Crescenta, CA
Feb 3, 2008

Yeah, this is one of those "what the f^^k?" JT cracks that keeps you thinking - burly indeed.