Loose Lady 

I'd give it 2 stars. I wasn't that jazzed about it. I guess it made me feel more insecure than challenged.

They call this line "Loose Lady" because of the holds- some flexing flakes and some gritty smears. With it's popularity I would have though that it would be completely clean, but I snapped one off anyway.

If I remember correctly, the crux is fairly low on the route (2nd bolt or so?) and involves navigating a slight bulge.

Seemed like the first two bolts each protected crux sequences like Mike described. In both cases, you can stand safely to make the clip, figure out the sequence to get you over the bulge, and be comfortably through the crux by the time your feet are above the bolt.

Mixed reactions seem to be the order of the day: I absolutely loved this route, and my partner would have been just as happy if I had cleaned on rap and we had both walked away.

I tend to go with Vogel's 5.9+ rating, rather than Bartlett's 5.10a. The crux sequences are both in the hard 5.9 range, and the remaining climbing is relatively sustained at 5.8, with the occasional 5.9 move thrown in just to keep you on your toes. (Friction climbing pun intended, of course.)

I think the last bolt (way off to the left) is off route. Perhaps it's not even supposed to be on at all, but skipping it makes the finish the way J tree should be... runout. Mmmmmmm...

great lead! typical JT FRICTION. the crux was at the first and second bolts.the other crux is in your head trying to trust your feet.classic JT route less a couple bolts.everyone should lead this one, at least once.

Not to be argumentative but I wouldn't call this really friction climbing - more like thin face and edging. Without all the nice little edges this would be a much more difficult route.

5.9+ or 5.10a??? Whatever the case my son and I loved this climb. Real fun lead!!! I found it to have a good combination of friction and edging. I loved the feeling of not knowing if I was going to take a piece of it home with me in my hand or to yell to my son below "Rock!" R. Vogel gives it four stars and for my son and I, we agree. I also agree with whomever questioned that seventh bolt. I too felt it to be a bit off and did it both ways. I ran it out first, then down climbed and clipped it. It was more fun as a short runout. It is hot in the afternoon so we did it at dusk. I recommend it (How many C's are there in that word?)

ive done this route many times and still cant figure out while its so classic, just another jtree slab climb, its long well protected compared to other slabs in josh, but the climbing seems way to monotonous to consider a major classic. it gets a little sporty up top but not to bad, the second bolt is my favorite place to collect quick draws after and during a busy weekend almost every time i walked by last season there was a draw on the second bolt, i went up and got them every time, ive scored three complete quick draws.... gym climbers...... phhhhhhh!

Very good face/slab climb great belay station. crux is after first clip and each difficult section has a bolt just prior.

Long, well protected and pure slab moves.

Oh how I longed to lay my hands on this rock, was worth waiting years to do. Yup I'd agree the crux is at the first bolt, I thought it was a 5.9, Oopps... Another fun climb that's was a 10 minuete walk from my tent. Hey the Fridge Magnet Dispenser at the top was empty, wasupwidat?

As of Saturday, a prominent, pyramid shaped hold around the halfway point wants to give up the ghost. Beware.

I'll tell you why it's a classic. I'm too lazy to describe all the details, but it just is. A random snow flurry and the best campfire sing-along EVER had somethng to do with it though.

My Butt sure puckered on this one. SO GOOD!!!!

I thought the crux was more on the second bulge and it was a tiny bit runout at the top im very short so reaching the slopers was tough me and my bud are 13 and 24 and we climb alot and we saw more climbers at looking glass and we didnt taslk to any all day we were the only ones to get pinhead crack headstone locomotion rock and LOOSE LADY ALL DAY!!!!!!we were kinda depressed not to meet the lokies ill be out from richmond VA soon again

Aaron hang in there. You didn't see any of the "lokies" because they were all over by Double Cross fighting with each other to see who would get to chop the phantom bolt.

I have seen this route rated everything between 5.8 and 5.10c. I give it a 9.

Nice route.

Hrm, and I thought the route was named to encourage more "loose" ladies to climb topless (my apologies to the nice lady from the bay area; I couldn't resist after learning the route name, hehe).

It's not a bad route, but if the neighboring Hidden Arch only gets 4 stars, then this is at most 3.

Climbed this route a few Decembers ago in 200 mph winds. I remember complaining about the gusts and nearly being blown off stances with each high step. My partner rightfully scorned me for being a little whiner. Put it all in perspective and made me laugh at myself, the wind and the route, which reminds me a little of the second pitch of ...Mariner on Lumpy Ridge.

Fantastic bolted route for JT! Well-protected (enough, that is. Hey, it's JT, remeber?) Ran right up for the onsite my first time. Unfortunately, this is one of those routes that seems to get harder and sketchy-er every time I climb it...

Great fun climbing....changes character bottom to top. Slab climbs are never supposed to feel "secure" in the sense of a good hand jam....that's the allure. May be 10a at other climbing locals, but felt like a very honest 9 to me. The cruxs come low. Great view from the top!

If you've done this one try dazed and confused on the lenticular dome, it's a bit more run out, but if you're comfortable on loose lady then there's nothing surprising on dazed and confused. I'd almost argue that loose lady is a bit more difficult. And this thing is not 10a. It's awesome, and fun, but it's 5.9.