This striking climb is easily identified as the wide crack which splits the formation into two distinct (upper and lower) halves. It starts as a hand crack but quickly widens to give good wide crack practice...do it 3 or 4 times in a row after leading to simulate longer Valley routes...The rock is quite good and although short the climb is memorable.
Protection
This is a hand to offwidth crack, so rack accordingly. If needed a large cam can be walked part of the way before it widens into mega-cam/Big Bro size.
I would have to agree this thing was a little softly rated. If Mainstreet in Vedauwoo is 10a then this would have to go into the 8+ range due to its short nature and lack of tricky OW moves. I would hate to sandbag anyone though, expect a 10a type workout on this thing regardless of the rating. My number 6 friend was my last piece of gear half way up the route- probably would need big bros on the upper half of the route, but you really arent falling out of it then!
By Jed Love From: Utah, Wyoming, Colorado Jan 12, 2008
This route is an 8+, and Mainstreet is 5.9.
By David Aguasca! From: Plymouth, NH Feb 9, 2010 rating: 5.9-
I add another vote to the "soft for 5.10" argument. The rock at the top is pretty cool, though, patina-type stuff.
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