BETA PHOTO: "At youre pleasure"=yellow dots. "unknown var we ...
Description
this route starts up hill and left of white rain , a hand crack goes out the left side of a huge chimney with chockstones. Follow this straight up through a nice jamming section to a slot with a nolina. Continue past the bush to the top.
Location
Hike up and left of white rain about 100 yds till you see a huge chimney/gully with chockstone. the route starts on the left side of the chimney. Easy approach from the top of perfect fingers.
Protection
Standard trad rack up to 2.5 inch, nuts too. Runners.Trad anchor . Rap off bolts for nearby sporty climb with 60 m rope.
Enlarge topo photo to full size. The yellow dots are "at your pleasure" 5.8 The red dot Variation was awsome. Not shure what the name of what we did is but It was cool. Nice and long too. Sunny rock , awsome hike. Can't ask for much more. Go up the start of at your pleasure , when you enter the slot below the nolina plant hang a hard right ,do an unprotected face traverse ( R for follower too. Definately not the crux, heads up but not scary) nice little posi holds and huge feet get you across the trverse into a stellar traversing hand crack with a Juggy finish I'd say 5.8 for the whole thing. Great gear all the way execpt for the balancy face traverse. Awsome route. Kinda pumpy, Nice! Do It!
My friend Taryn experienced the ants on lead on April 5th, but when I followed I saw a total of four! I think she carried them all to the top crawling all over her... does anybody know what the bolted route about 40 feet to the right of this is called (marked in blue on Tony's map)? It goes up the face, and I'd guess the upper part is in the 9- or 10a range (we didn't climb the lower part though)... it's a sweet route, and a bit heady if you don't bring a couple pieces of gear to place between the 2 and 3rd bolts of the second pitch.
By Taryn From: San Diego, CA Apr 8, 2008 rating: 5.8-
Ants! I don't even remember the moves on the bottom part of this climb. I was too busy being covered in ants! AG! Still, it was a fun route. Maybe the ants are seasonal?