A nice route, on good rock. Overstarred in the Vogel guide at 5 stars, but would get 3.5 stars in my book. Double cruxed, well protected, but just a bit short to be cinco estrellas. Crack finish or escapable alternative to the left. This, along with several other area classics, make the hike up Queen Mountain well worth it.
The Gear
5 bolts, and a fixed pin
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Margy Floyd and I did the FA of this route. It is located at the Cirque of the Climbables on the south slope of Queen Mtn., nowhere near the Stone Flower Tower. 5 of 5 stars IMHO.
By Adam Stackhouse Administrator From: Escondido, Ca Jun 4, 2004
I've climbed this route twice and would give it 3 out of 5 stars which translates into a great route. It is too short to be a classic and sports some sections with loose edges. Dave and Margy must have augmented the FA in a way that rendered "Treasure of the Sierra Madre" a classic in DEE's mind.
I've climbed the route many times and must have missed those loose edges (better route finding Vern?). Still 5 of 5 IMNSHO.
By Chris Miller Administrator Jun 9, 2004 rating: 5.10d
A really good route which, if longer, would merit additonal stars. The rock is good, the location & position stellar and the direct finish the obvious choice. Thanks Dave and Margy for such a fine addition!
By Adam Stackhouse Administrator From: Escondido, Ca Jun 9, 2004
As I said (don't get mad Dave), great route, but not 5 stars (Vogel guide). It is a must do if in the area, as it easy to pro, second and rap/clean. Bolts are placed very nicely...
Great route, but the hike and the lack of quality climbing nearby make it seem like high overhead low return. We also did the route Chrismas tree arete while we were up there. How in the hell does Randy give that one 3 stars! Holy pile batman!! Maybe it was a typo.
I don't know what VS and ATS are talking about - I agree with DE that this is clearly a five star route. As far as rock quality, continuous difficulty, and interesting moves Treasures is just as good or better than Figures.