White Rain is a fantastic mixed pro climb; one of the few to get 5 stars in Randy's guide book.
The route begins on a large boulder uphill from Mojave Queen (5.11a). It is prudent to stick clip the first bolt before stepping onto the steep face. Sustained face climbing past six bolts on fine patina brings the climber to cruxy moves that gain the short finger/hand crack. A few challenging moves in the crack lead to the top.
Protection
Pro includes QD's for 6 bolts, a few small TCU's (#1 - #3), and a few small - medium cams for a short crack to finish the climb. Rappel from a two bolt anchor with chains/rings at the top.
Deserves every star, stellar line.. Clipping the first bolt can be done safely with a "boulder belay". I felt the crux was past the last bolt.
RE: Description of rappel. There is no rap anchor at the top of WR. You can rap from the top of Mojave Queen, below and climber's left from the top of WR. It is a double rope rap for 60m ropes.
By Adam Stackhouse Administrator From: Escondido, Ca Apr 25, 2006 rating: 5.11a
When we did this route several years ago, and we felt the crux came immediately after the first bolt (which we stick-clipped). Add this with Murf's comment and you get the picture (alot of good moves). At the top were one meanders right to the shallow crack, dont be tempted to go up at or before this point. As I recall, moving a bit to the right of this before heading up made it easier. 5.10-ish in this section. Found rap bolts via the right shoulder of this rock. Overall a wonderful route in a pristine area. Highly recommended.
RSS Feed
Slideshow
