This route is located on the southeastern side of Olympic Dome. It heads directly up the featured, but overhanging face to the left of Icon. Class 3 scrambling takes you up to the base atop a large boulder.
Incorrectly given an "R" rating in the last guide, it is reasonably well protected. The technical crux of this route is getting past the first bolt, but the real crux of the climb is the fact that it just doesn't relent. Slightly overhanging for its entire 80+ feet, there are no big rests; with the upper half having continuous moves to the very top. Probably 12a/b.
A mega classic route that has it all.
Protection
7 bolts, 2 bolt anchor/rap. Not really sport bolted, but not dangerous either.
While an R rating is probably unnecesary you wouldn't want to fall near the third bolt because you may end up on the boulder next to your belayer.
It seemed like the most difficult move was 11d but there are 5.11 moves at every bolt. The route is easily one of the best face climbs for the grade at J-Tree.
I found this route to be one my headiest redpoints at JTree, or anywhere for that matter! The runout in the middle was sublime, 20ft between bolts, with a solid 5.11 deadpoint with the next bolt just out of reach! Maybe not actually dangerous, but damn!
Black Diamond has 6 bolts! There is a new bolt on the wall that was not there before. Maybe a 1 bolt link up from Icon into Black Diamond? It looks like one could clip this new bolt on the runout section of Black Diamond, by traversing right to the bolt, then back onto the route. That sux!
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