It is safe to say that every climber who has set foot in the pristine wilderness of Queen Mtn. would agree that the area comprising Walt's Rocks features some of the very best crack, face, and mixed pro climbs in Joshua Tree. With more than 20 multi-star routes to choose from at Walt's Rocks alone, Queen Mtn. beckons the adventurous climber for multiple encounters.
Getting There
An excellent description to access the parking area near the southern portion of Queen Mtn. is given in Randy's guide book. From the parking lot, follow the dirt road toward the large mountainous area. Where the dirt road ends, a trail veers in an easterly direction to a steep north / south running gully. Follow the trail up the gully until a plateau is reached. The Pearls are visible to the north and Cirque of the Climbables are east and below the plateau. Veer northwest until you reach a crest where Walt's Rocks will be visible on a ridge to the north. Follow a well marked trail with cairns over rocky terrain to a large east to west running drainage. Upper Walt's Rocks are on the eastern end of the area and Lower Walt's Rocks are located towards the west end. Allow 45 minutes to an hour from the car.
This premier Walt's Rock classic begins left of White Rain (5.11a) at the base of the formation. Begin in a low-angle chimney and climb to a small ledge. Traverse right (bolt protected) to gain a nice hand crack (5.10). Follow the hand crack to its end where spectacular steep face climbing (crux) is protected by three bolts. The movement and position are exceptional on this route!...[more]
Realistically, allow about 1.5 hours to reach the crag. If you have been here before, have the approach dialed and are fit, you could certainly do it faster. It is about 2.1 miles from the car to the base of Walt's Rocks over sometimes rough terrain.
If you get off route, you could easily take longer.
Walt's Rocks
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