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Queen Mountain

Submitted By: David Evans on Apr 16, 2004
Administrators: Chris Miller, Adam Stackhouse
Latitude: 34.0481  Longitude: -116.1021 
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Eastern section of Queen Mountain from the parking...


Description 

Queen Mountain has some of the most beautiful and remote climbing in all of Joshua Tree National Park. The climbs are predominantly traditonal with a smattering of sport routes, although for the most part the face routes are traditionally bolted. There are several distinct sub-areas, some of which are the Cirque of the Climbables, The Pearls, Olympic Dome, The Frontier Wall, The Summit Area and Walt's Rocks. The rock quality is excellent, with some of the best varnish climbing in The Park. Raging classics include Perfect Fingers (5.10a), Icon (5.10c), Treasure Of The Sierra Madre (5.10d), White Rain (5.11a), The Bloodline (5.12a) and many, many others.


Getting There 

There's no two ways about it, the approaches are LONG! Either hike from the dirt roads to the south of the peak or from the Uncle Willy's parking area. Allow 1.5-3 hours for the approach.



Featured Route For Queen Mountain
Bobby P. copping a lieback on the Mojave Queen crack below the bolted face. <br /><br />The chalked holds on the varnished face to the right are part of the route <a href='/v/california/joshua_tree_national_park/queen_mountain/105724537'>White Rain</a> (5.11a).

Mojave Queen 5.11a  CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Walt's Rocks
This premier Walt's Rock classic begins left of White Rain (5.11a) at the base of the formation. Begin in a low-angle chimney and climb to a small ledge. Traverse right (bolt protected) to gain a nice hand crack (5.10). Follow the hand crack to its end where spectacular steep face climbing (crux) is protected by three bolts. The movement and position are exceptional on this route!...[more]


Add Photo Photos of Queen Mountain
The road into Queen Mountain.<br />Photo by Blitzo.

The road into Queen Mountain.
Photo by Blitzo.


Wash below Queen Mountain, Joshua Tree.

Wash below Queen Mountain, Joshua Tree.

Giant Nolina (Nolina parryi), Joshua Tree.<br />

Giant Nolina (Nolina parryi), Joshua Tree.