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Queen Mountain

Submitted By: David Evans on Apr 16, 2004
Administrators: C Miller, Adam Stackhouse
Latitude: 34.0481  Longitude: -116.1021 
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Eastern section of Queen Mountain from the parking...


Description 

Queen Mountain has some of the most beautiful and remote climbing in all of Joshua Tree National Park. The climbs are predominantly traditonal with a smattering of sport routes, although for the most part the face routes are traditionally bolted. There are several distinct sub-areas, some of which are the Cirque of the Climbables, The Pearls, Olympic Dome, The Frontier Wall, The Summit Area and Walt's Rocks. The rock quality is excellent, with some of the best varnish climbing in The Park. Raging classics include Perfect Fingers (5.10a), Icon (5.10c), Treasure Of The Sierra Madre (5.10d), White Rain (5.11a), The Bloodline (5.12a) and many, many others.


Getting There 

There's no two ways about it, the approaches are LONG! Either hike from the dirt roads to the south of the peak or from the Uncle Willy's parking area. Allow 1.5-3 hours for the approach.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Queen Mountain:
Perfect Fingers   5.10a     Trad, 1 pitch, 115 feet   Walt's Rocks
Treasure Of The Sierra Madre   5.10d     Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet   Cirque of the Climbables
Mojave Queen   5.11a     Trad, 1 pitch, 140 feet   Walt's Rocks
White Rain   5.11a     Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet   Walt's Rocks
Browse More Classics in Queen Mountain

Featured Route For Queen Mountain
Bloodline

The Bloodline 5.12a  CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : Olympic Dome
Begin at the same spot as for Red Cross (5.12a) and clip the first bolt for that route. Traverse left past two more bolts until reaching the base of the left-slanting seam. One more bolt and a piton are at the base of the seam (11c to this point). Brilliant climbing on exquisite rock exists to the top. You will encounter a distinct crux (12) half way up the seam where a fixed #1 camalot is located. An ancient cactus is located on the le...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA


Photos of Queen Mountain Slideshow Add Photo
The road into Queen Mountain.<br />Photo by Blitzo.

The road into Queen Mountain.
Photo by Blitzo.


Wash below Queen Mountain, Joshua Tree.

Wash below Queen Mountain, Joshua Tree.

Giant Nolina (Nolina parryi), Joshua Tree.<br />

Giant Nolina (Nolina parryi), Joshua Tree.


A random tower on Queen Mountain.<br />Photo by Blitzo.

A random tower on Queen Mountain.
Photo by Blitzo.


Climbing on Queen Mountain.<br />Photo by Blitzo.

Climbing on Queen Mountain.
Photo by Blitzo.


Tucker Tech on a new route on Queen Mountain.<br />Photo by Blitzo.

Tucker Tech on a new route on Queen Mountain.
Phot...


Todd Gordon climbing on Queen Mountain.<br />Photo by Blitzo.

Todd Gordon climbing on Queen Mountain.
Photo by B...


The rock is a bit different on Queen Mountain.<br />Photo by Blitzo

The rock is a bit different on Queen Mountain.
Pho...


Queen Mountain from Ryan Mountain.<br />Photo by Blitzo.

Queen Mountain from Ryan Mountain.
Photo by Blitzo...