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DescriptionQueen Mountain has some of the most beautiful and remote climbing in all of Joshua Tree National Park. The climbs are predominantly traditonal with a smattering of sport routes, although for the most part the face routes are traditionally bolted. There are several distinct sub-areas, some of which are the Cirque of the Climbables, The Pearls, Olympic Dome, The Frontier Wall, The Summit Area and Walt's Rocks. The rock quality is excellent, with some of the best varnish climbing in The Park. Raging classics include Perfect Fingers (5.10a), Icon (5.10c), Treasure Of The Sierra Madre (5.10d), White Rain (5.11a), The Bloodline (5.12a) and many, many others. Getting ThereThere's no two ways about it, the approaches are LONG! Either hike from the dirt roads to the south of the peak or from the Uncle Willy's parking area. Allow 1.5-3 hours for the approach. The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Queen Mountain:
Perfect Fingers 5.10a Trad, 1 pitch, 115 feet Walt's Rocks
Treasure Of The Sierra Madre 5.10d Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet Cirque of the Climbables
Mojave Queen 5.11a Trad, 1 pitch, 140 feet Walt's Rocks
White Rain 5.11a Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet Walt's Rocks
Featured Route For Queen Mountain
 Begin at the same spot as for Red Cross (5.12a) and clip the first bolt for that route. Traverse left past two more bolts until reaching the base of the left-slanting seam. One more bolt and a piton are at the base of the seam (11c to this point). Brilliant climbing on exquisite rock exists to the top. You will encounter a distinct crux (12) half way up the seam where a fixed #1 camalot is located. An ancient cactus is located on the le...[more] Browse More Classics in CA
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