Climber with entirely too much gear for this climb...
Description
On the left side of the west face of Trashcan Rock (facing the large parking area), there are three wide, ugly-looking cracks. From left to right, they are B-3, B-2, and B-1. Karpkwitz ascends just to the left of B-3.
This is a fun little climb. It starts with some bouldery moves down low and climbs through some patina plates to a horizontal about 2/3 of the way up. From there, you have the option of toping out using a curving crack to the left or face climbing on the right -- either way is about the same difficulty. Anchor from the same spot as for B-3. Walk off to the north.
Protection
Small to medium pieces. You might be able to move over right into B-3 and place a larger piece. Also, it may be possible to sling a plate or two on the way up, but I can't really imagine wanting to ...
By mmurduff From: Foothill Ranch, CA Nov 29, 2005 rating: 5.6
This climb was somewhat challenging to my partners. Although a 5.6, The right leaning crack past the horizontal area takes a bit of commitment even if it only takes a few pieces of gear. The crack protects very well with Medium Nuts. The anchor I placed took a #4 directly above the crack and small tricams in a horizontal. I give it one star because the crack can be done as a layback, which I thought was fun!
Haven't done this one in a while but I remember the lieback/side pull move about 15' up getting into the left crack being tricky for a 5.6. I didnt know how to get finger cams or locks back then so it might be easier. You can place a piece right there though and have a good stance before the move. This climb is pretty much about that 1 move and is a bit easier above and below it.
By 72HW From: Los Angeles, CA Mar 3, 2008 rating: 5.6
Yeah - the move past the lieback is exciting, and if not for that move the climb would've rated a single star. This is a really fun climb, one the aspiring leader might do well to experience on the sharp end.
One of my first goals at Josh was to lead Karpkwitz. It took a couple of years before I found it on a day w/o a crowd. But it was fun and I really like this climb, short but sweet.
Trashcan Rock
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