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Bitch, Bitch 

5.7 R

   

FA: Dave Evans and Marge Floyd
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.7 [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 80 feet
Views: 53 page views

Submitted By: Roger Linfield on Sep 11, 2006


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BETA PHOTO: "Bitch, Bitch". If you like choss, you'll love thi...


Description 

This is a loose, poorly protected crack/face near the left end of the main AFPA wall.


Protection 

standard rack



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By seamstress
Dec 28, 2007
rating: 5.7

There are two bolts on the lower portion - so "runout" isn't accurate. Before the first bolt, you can get a small cam in the left crack which is out of your line of sight, so peer around and check it out. There are a couple of times when you have to step left and it feels a little insecure, so probably not the best climb for your first 5.7 lead. The second half is fun where the rock separates and you can stem or lie back or wedge in a body part. This and other APFA Rock climbs are good for a cold day.

By Ryan Kelly
From: the Gym
Dec 30, 2007
rating: 5.7

I believe the bolts are for the arete route to the left, although the first one can come in handy. I disagree with the 'R' rating as it stands today. Perhaps it has cleaned up over time, but the pro is fine.