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Andromeda Strain 

5.7

   

FA: D. Davis, D. O'Kelley and B. Andre 11/71
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.7+ [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 50 feet
Views: 228 page views

Submitted By: calitradclimber on Aug 31, 2001


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I believe this is Andromeda Strain, as my memory s...


Description 

This is a great route, the crux is about 3/4 the way up, once you are in the crux keep going or you might get pumped out. TAKE WATER, especially if you are with a sprayer and you end up doing belay slave at the top. Here are some links, I believe this is the right one.

Remember Mr. Ego is NOT your best climbing buddy...!!!


Protection 

I don't do beta except for what the guide books and topos offer, half the fun is figuring it out on your own.



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By Chris Miller
Administrator
Feb 10, 2004
rating: 5.7

FA - D. Davis, D. O'Kelley and B. Andre 11/71 Oddly the FA party chose not to start the crack directly and placed a bolt on the face to the right. The direct start is worthy and slightly harder at about 5.8. One star out of five.

By Locker
Mar 1, 2004
rating: 5.7

Did this one yesterday and thought it ok. Easy to protect, small nuts worked great!(Don't load it up! This is a short one). Pretty much easy going most of the way. I chose not to protect the majority. Two thirds up good idea if you did not protect below, as a fall from that point could mean trouble. Fun warm up!

By Infernal Doom Fanatic
Oct 1, 2004
rating: 5.7

Fun, worth doing but not that memorable. There are some short and sweet moves, but it's basically your typical J-Tree watershute climb.

By Blitzo
Oct 16, 2006

This is one of the only, somewhat worthwhile routes in the area.

By seamstress
Dec 28, 2007
rating: 5.9

I was told that something broke off at the bottom and now the start is a 10a (but with a soft sandy landing). There isn't much to hold onto and the feet are all smears. The first time we tried this, several years ago, I couldn't do the start at all and needed a boost from my belayer. You can also put in a very small nut and use it to french free that move. But once you are off the ground, the moves to the bolt are below 5.7. This is a great climb for a cold day and a nice climb for a new-ish leader. If you include the first move, think of it as a 5.9.

By Ryan Kelly
From: the Gym
Dec 30, 2007
rating: 5.7

It's a slab start, I don't see how anything could break off. If someone is going to call that a .10a you're going to need to build a gym around the rock and put tape on the holds. As of today, it was all of 5.7, though the start is probably a bit less.