I believe this is Andromeda Strain, as my memory s...
Description
This is a great route, the crux is about 3/4 the way up, once you are in the crux keep going or you might get pumped out. TAKE WATER, especially if you are with a sprayer and you end up doing belay slave at the top. Here are some links, I believe this is the right one.
Remember Mr. Ego is NOT your best climbing buddy...!!!
Protection
I don't do beta except for what the guide books and topos offer, half the fun is figuring it out on your own.
By Chris Miller Administrator Feb 10, 2004 rating: 5.7
FA - D. Davis, D. O'Kelley and B. Andre 11/71 Oddly the FA party chose not to start the crack directly and placed a bolt on the face to the right. The direct start is worthy and slightly harder at about 5.8. One star out of five.
Did this one yesterday and thought it ok. Easy to protect, small nuts worked great!(Don't load it up! This is a short one). Pretty much easy going most of the way. I chose not to protect the majority. Two thirds up good idea if you did not protect below, as a fall from that point could mean trouble. Fun warm up!
I was told that something broke off at the bottom and now the start is a 10a (but with a soft sandy landing). There isn't much to hold onto and the feet are all smears. The first time we tried this, several years ago, I couldn't do the start at all and needed a boost from my belayer. You can also put in a very small nut and use it to french free that move. But once you are off the ground, the moves to the bolt are below 5.7. This is a great climb for a cold day and a nice climb for a new-ish leader. If you include the first move, think of it as a 5.9.
By Ryan Kelly From: the Gym Dec 30, 2007 rating: 5.7
It's a slab start, I don't see how anything could break off. If someone is going to call that a .10a you're going to need to build a gym around the rock and put tape on the holds. As of today, it was all of 5.7, though the start is probably a bit less.