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Trashcan Rock
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Tiptoe 

5.7+

   

FA: Dave Stahl and Mona Stahl, October 1972
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.7 [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 30 feet
Views: 403 page views

Submitted By: Mark J. Nelson on Nov 2, 2002


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Neale below Tiptoe


Description 

Tiptoe up the crystals protruding from the thin dike in the middle of the face between B-1 and B-2. There are three bolts, and no real need for anything else.

Belay from a strong stance in a niche up and left from the top of the climb, then walk off to the north.


Protection 

3 bolts, gear to 3" for the anchor

If you start at the base of B2 (slightly left) you can probably get a piece there before stepping onto the face.



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Tiptoe (5.7+) runs up the face between the two cracks ©

BETA PHOTO: Tiptoe (5.7+) runs up the face between the two cra...


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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated May 24, 2008
By Brian Reynolds
Nov 28, 2003
rating: 5.7+

This is a pretty fun slab climb. It looks steep, but nice protrusions appear on the dikes (oops, I mean "women in comfortable shoes") everytime you need them.

By 5.10b4me
From: Alhambra, California
Nov 29, 2003

One of my favorite leads in the Monument.

By Woody Stark
Feb 9, 2004

In my opinion it's an eight.

By Infernal Doom Fanatic
Oct 1, 2004
rating: 5.7

A solid 5.7 in my opinion. Bitchin stairway type footholds with nice transfer moves to the next set of stairs with a commiting move to easier ground. Be mindful of your anchors at the top as the rock is quite chossy and untrustworthy. Long slings around the boulders at the top for the anchors are defintely reccomended.

By Bo Johnston
Mar 14, 2005
rating: 5.7

Super route with little effort but getting down. Great practice route for Snake Dike in the Valley! LOL

By namascar
Apr 4, 2005
rating: 5.7

Interesting formation

By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
From: Escondido, Ca
Mar 13, 2006
rating: 5.7+

About halfway up, this follows an interesting quartz extrusion.

By Blitzo
Sep 10, 2006

Cool dike!

By Will S
Mar 1, 2007

Not a pure slab route like it appears to be from the ground. There are a couple friction moves, but it's mainly face climbing on square edges of the dikes. Fun route.

By 72HW
From: Los Angeles, CA
Mar 3, 2008
rating: 5.7+

My friend David led this one and I was fine doing it as a TR.

Boy, you think jamming a piece under that flake before the first bolt will help your head, then you see that sucker bend!

By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: La Crescenta, CA
May 24, 2008
rating: 5.7

If Profundity is "R" then this climb is too.