This route climbs a clean right-facing dihedral on the right side of the main formation. Start on the right face of a chimney and climb the thin crack up the corner. The crux comes early, with a long move off fingers, and continues directly up, on occasion using the cracks on the left wall. Bolted anchor/rap provides a quick return to your packs.
I agree that this rock feels like Taquitz rock. Smooth and not as much friction as other Jtree rock. This route reminded me of "El Camino Real" at Taquitz, although much easier.
This is one of the best routes I have done at JTree. My partner and I find the rock there to be like a cross between Yosemite and Tuulomne granite. 4 out of 5 stars. It is well worth the short hike, long for some of you, to this area to do a couple of climbs here.
Beta: A #4 Camalot fits well in a spot at knee level once you are on top of the starting block. Red alien fits well at the very top of the second hand pod before the section of the climb where the crack peters out for a bit. You want to get a solid piece here as it is almost run out to the next piece. Jugs will save the day right when you start to feel the runout. Bring extra medium gear: green aliens thru red aliens or purple camalots. Bolts and rap rings at top.
By susan peplow From: what day is this? Nov 6, 2006
Takes great pro. Short section down low gets you thinking but easily passed. Fun, multi-star route and worth the trip when coupled with other classics in the area.
White Cliffs of Dover
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