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Hound Rock
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Crescent Wrench 

5.10d

   

FA: unknown
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.10d [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 30 feet
Views: 71 page views

Submitted By: Woody Stark on Apr 20, 2005


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BETA PHOTO: A view of Hound Rocks.


Description 

First, I didn't lead this route. I did, however, climb it. It's located on "Hound Rock"--the left side. One can see an arching crack--right to left-- near the top of the formation. Climb the obvious vertical crack and follow the arch. The guide book (Bartlett) rates the route at 5.10d/11a. My partner and I agreed it was closer to 5.10b/c.


Protection 

Small cams, stoppers



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By Woody Stark
Apr 21, 2005

A sustained route rated in the guide at 10d/11a. I would say closer to 10b/c.

By Murf
Apr 21, 2005
rating: 5.10d

On the sharp end this things works out to a .10+.

By Randy
Apr 21, 2005
rating: 5.10d

A different experience on lead/follow as placing (or even removing) gear is strenuous.

By Vernon Stiefel
Apr 21, 2005
rating: 5.10d

Crescent Wrench is definitely 10d on lead. This is a perfect example of why route ratings based on a TR ascent are irrelevant when compared to the difficulty of an onsight attempt on lead.

By Chris Miller
Administrator
Apr 21, 2005
rating: 5.10d

Short but engaging, especially if lead. Two stars out of five.

The lead vs. toprope rating debate is more suited towards crack climbs IMO; there seems to be little difference between leading and toproping a sport climb.

By Woody Stark
Apr 21, 2005

Point taken. This, I believe, is the first time I've entered a route I didn't lead. The next time out there, I'll give it a try and see what I see.

By Locker
Apr 22, 2005

I again have to agree totally with CM on this one. Leading "Crack/trad" as opposed to top roping crack/trad is a totally different story. On top rope a 10a can feel pretty easy. That same crack on lead depending upon your head/focus at the time of the lead, can feel 10a or like holy hell and 11.oh shit! The same route done three times over a years period can also bring mixed results. That I think is one of the joys of trad...........