Moving past the bolt on Make or Break Flake (5.10b...
Description
This unique climb is the left-most route at the White Cliffs Of Dover proper, and climbs a flake to face just left of Quest For Fire (5.11b/c).
A strenuous start (5.10b) in a right-facing flare (fingers/thin hands in the back) gives way to good hand jams with marginal feet as you gain the start of the flake proper, which takes a jagged line up the face before cutting left below the top (#4 Camlaot or equivalent is useful). Continue up the face past a single bolt (5.10-) via thin edges and delicate smears to the top. You'll want to save some gear to 3" for the anchor; descent is via the gully to the right.
Fun climbing combined with two very distinct and disparate cruxes, all on great rock, make this a very worthwhile route to do when in the area. Two stars out of five.
For the anchor, I didn't find any need for larger gear. Two BD 0.5's and an Orange Metolius (approx. BD 0.4 size) did the trick nicely. A really fun route, I'd definately recommend it. Also, looking toward at the route, I thought the descent to the left was easier and less exposed. It's a really fun route, and makes you think a little at the beginning.
Sexy, boulderly start with fun finger locks and jams, followed by short easy shuffling and awkward face moves to exit.
The descent sucks: ball bearing exposed traverse on left side, then circle around back and destroy soil and nolina down a short gully. Bolts would be safer and significantly less damaging to the area... hopefully an early ascent steward of this climb will add them some day.
White Cliffs of Dover
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