This is a west face route to the right of B-2. There are two bolts and getting to the first one is around 5.8 and high enough to get hurt. Moving by the first bolt is somewhat height dependent. For me at 5'9" it's a 10b. From the second bolt go straight up(10c) or traverse right and up--easier (5.10a).
I agree with Mike. The hardest part of the climb is passing the 1st bolt. The rock is very polished in that area at your feet from all those before... I'm 6'3" and still, it's a lot of work to reach the better hoizontals above. After that, going straight up is no problem and no harder than 10a. I don't really see why anyone would head right and get away from the natural line. It doesn't seem all that much easier and certainly not as fun. This is a very good route for learning how well this J-Tree stone will stick to your shoes!!!!!
I agree with Bo and Mike that getting past that first bolt is a doozy. And the Bo man nails it bringing up how polished it is. I remember many years back when it was not so and was easier........soon it will be upgraded to 5.glass considering how many people frequent the area........I have led it many, many times as has my son. When on Trashcan......it's a must do for us..........
By 72HW From: Pasadeana, CA Mar 3, 2008 rating: 5.10c R
Stepped onto this one with confidence, then came the whole getting to that first bolt thing... luckily a friend swung over from Tip Toe and clipped the thing for me. So then I tried to lead past that bolt, no go. Just felt so wonky. Backed off and top roped it. The mantel is solid, hardest part for me was moving past the second bolt. Not one I'd like to lead any time soon.
By Chris Owen Administrator From: La Crescenta, CA May 24, 2008 rating: 5.10c
Not sure why it's "R". Good wire below the first bolt if you want to stop and put it in. Move past the first bolt seemed like 5.10a, but just one move to good horizontal rail, for me the crux was oozing up past the second bolt.
By Thomas Thelen From: Prescott, AZ Apr 7, 2009 rating: 5.10c R
ah yet another reminder that I don't enjoy face climbing as much as crack climbing. I'm 6'4" and it didn't help that much, getting past that first bolt it challenging to say the least.