BETA PHOTO: B-1 (5.2) climbs the crack on the right in the pho...
Description
On the left side of the west face of Trashcan Rock (facing the large parking area), there are three wide, ugly-looking cracks. From left to right, they are B-3, B-2, and B-1. B-1 is the easiest, but it's also the only one worth climbing. Chimney moves down low give way to fun climbing on patina plates up top.
This would be a good first climb on TR, and a great first trad lead. If you could beat the crowds, that is ...
Protection
Hand size and up. Would protect well with just a set of stoppers and a set of hexes if you don't have cams. Anchor to the left of a large overhang up top -- some longer slings helpful.
good pro placement practice climb and hand jamming practice climb if you ignore the face. Only problematic thing for a beginner is the slab traverse 15' left from the top when breaking down the belay to get to the walkoff.
Finish directly up through/between the cap rocks (instead of traversing left) for a couple of fun moves of bombay squeeze. (That finish is not recommended if you are TRing, you'll want your rope below the caprock in that case). Probably the best of the "B" cracks.
By Russ Walling From: www.FishProducts.com Jan 10, 2008 rating: 5.2
I thought this was at least 5.1c.... Mid to top end of the 5.1 scale for sure. Be safe out there.
By Adam Stackhouse Administrator From: Escondido, Ca Jan 11, 2008 rating: 5.2
Russ, not everone has your esteemed 5.6 onsight ability, so leave the comments for the >5.4 community to us regular folk!
Trashcan Rock
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