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Trashcan Rock
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Butterfly Crack 

5.11c

   

FA: John Bald and John Long 1973
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.11b/c [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 50 feet
Views: 329 page views

Submitted By: AJ on Jan 1, 2002


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BETA PHOTO: Dan Popa working the first few moves


Description 

This is between Hermanutic and the Sawdust cracks. Greasy tips locks lead to a juggy hand crack. Good rock.

The protection is maybe PG- bomber, but it's too strenuous to place it until you're a ways up.


Protection 

1-3"



Add Photo Photos of Butterfly Crack
Nice headjam or man-eating crack?

Nice headjam or man-eating crack?

Trashcan Rock - East Face

BETA PHOTO: Trashcan Rock - East Face

Steve Cox mid-send. Or considering his proximity to the ground, early-mid-send.

Steve Cox mid-send. Or considering his proximity t...


Add Comment Comments on Butterfly Crack
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By Randy
Apr 16, 2003

According to the O'Kelly's Crack maxum (first 10 feet don't count toward the rating), this route should be 5.9! The bottom is hard (and has gotten a bit harder as the ground at the base has eroded away over the years).

By Gary Kleiger
May 13, 2003

Maybe the rating should be V2 for the boulder problem, and 5.9 for the route.

By Blitzo
Sep 8, 2006

The new sign says 5.11a!

By Will S
Jan 10, 2008

Bouldery move off the ground to a couple nasty/greasy tips locks moves or a few lieback moves. Feels about the same difficulty whether you lieback or lock, just decide whether you want insecure hands or insecure feet.