Boulder Crack 

1 out of 3 stars is a stretch; but 3 out of 3; Wow! That does not give much room for improvement. Let's try to get some perspective here. The site could use a 0 star rating that means it is just unremarkable, and another separate rating for a Bomb.

I think we need to get a little perspective with the star ratings. This route deserves 0 of 3 stars (or 0 of 5 stars). That does not mean it is a bad route, just pretty unremarkable. If the site is to keep a 3 star rating (or even convert to a 5 star rating), 0 stars should not be equivalent to "A Bomb." There should be a separate rating for really bad routes (which this climb is not).

I agree that this is clearly not a 3 star route. I also, however, agree that 0 stars should not be a bomb. I gave Nolina Crack at White Cliffs of Dover 0 stars, in order to keep it in perspective with what 1 star means (to me anyways). I don't think it's a bomb, it's a perfectly fine route but thoroughly unnoteworthy.

A.J. After a riveting experience on Tennis Shoe Crack which of these 6 star J-Tree classics of equivalent grade would you recommend: Fluff Boy, Funky Dung, or Wake Me When It's Over?

AJ: Seems your list of essential gear is a little light. Routes of this length see frequent unplanned bivies, particularly during the shorter winter days from November through February. I would recommend that the well prepared climber bring (along with the excellent gear selection mentioned): a flashlight, matches (or lighter), 27 power bars (cliff bars OK), toilet paper, gas mask (in case weapons of mass destruction are found lurking under a boulder), fleece, rain gear, umbrella, bivy bag, and of course, a bolt kit (in case you ever get up the nerve to lead Double Cross.

Just to be safe, you'll also want to bring spare batteries for your headlamp, plus 6 oval 'biners should you have to rig an impromptu carabiner brake bar for descent.

You can use the scale on the site easily enough. You always have to read in context. On this site, 0 stars is a bonb, 1 star is unremarkable, 2 stars is a great line, and 3 stars is a climb you consider to be a super-classic that you called all of your pals about that night. Every book and every author use different scales. By using the scale as published on this site, you can maintain consistency. That's better than putting what you think it should be on someother scale and then haggling over which scale is correct.

ive done bolder problems in the park that are taller....

Now this is the kind of verbosity that legends are made of.

PS cinco estrellas es mas bueno para mi.

After rehearsing the initial overhanging moves on toprope and fixing the first pitches, we were able to claim a victorious 1-day, completely free ascent. 18 hours car to car. The bar has been set.

Mike M. I have done this crack three times now on different days. Rating it 5.14a is a bit too much don't you think? And I found that if you take a 60m rope, you can just make it in one pitch.........anyway I feel that 5.13d is more appropriate.........doing it as a three pitch climb is fun also............and you could do it as a ten pitch climb I suppose...........

Gee, I always thought you were supposed to start from the top and climb it down head first. I gotta try it going up I guess.