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White Cliffs of Dover
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Ace Of Spades 

5.9

   

FA: unknown
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.9 [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 80 feet
Views: 519 page views

Submitted By: Josh Beck on Mar 7, 2003


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Description 

Start up Popular Mechanics (5.9), the very clean, right facing, off-vertical dihedral that is the centerpiece of the White Cliffs of Dover, and about 1/3 of the way up diverge left into the middle of the 3 parallel cracks that head up the left wall of the dihedral. Excellent steep hand jamming makes this a great route and worth doing even if you've done Popular Mechanics already.


Protection 

Standard selection from thin to 3", bolted anchor/rap station



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By Chris Miller
Administrator
Sep 3, 2004
rating: 5.9

This excellent route with clean rock, good position and memorable moves is a treat for those who like quality crack climbing, and is one of the recommended routes at the White Cliffs Of Dover area. Four stars out of five.

By Chris Miller
Administrator
Sep 3, 2004
rating: 5.9

The bolts at the anchor are 3/8"

By Richard Beller
Dec 30, 2004
rating: 5.9

I remember this as one of the best 5.9 routes in the park, and just as good as Touch N Go or Pope's Crack. Do it!

By Woody Stark
May 20, 2005
rating: 5.8

A fine route, well protected, but no more than 5.8.

By Joe Dawson
Jan 18, 2006
rating: 5.9 PG13

This climb is plently of fun, even if you already did Popular Mechanics. The climb is 5.9, the guy who said it is no more than 5.8 must have had a low gravity day.

Beta:
The anchor is about 10 vertical feet above the Popular Mechanics anchor and it is a little to the left of the end of the crack. You cannot see it from the base of the climb, but it is there. Rap is about 90 feet.