Just to the left of Right Sawdust crack, climb the thinner and much more difficult crack, avoiding using Right Sawdust crack at the top where it gets a little cruxy. Not too bad though, just move fast enough to avoid the pump. Would be worth another star if it wasn't so close to Right Sawdust Crack, at the top it could be pretty tempting to use the other crack just 2-3' away.
Protection
Thin to hand sized. Best to have a couple of fist sized pieces for an anchor.
I agree... I'm generally of the "if I can hit it on the way down or if I can reach it while my other hand is still definitely in the crack / on route, then it's on as well" mindset. They're two different cracks and it's not that hard to avoid the right one at the top and it makes it a bit more difficult, but it is contrived. In the end though it's up to the leader and as long as they have a good time there's no right or wrong.
Umm yeah, I just climbed this the other day and it seemed damned contrived not to use the other crack. But I enjoy plenty of much more contrived antics at the gym so, what the heck, why not?
By 5.10b4me From: Alhambra, California Oct 12, 2003
I thought this crack was pretty hard at the top (for me), but avoided using the right hand crack except for one move.I thought this was a mucho fun route.
Trashcan Rock
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