Nate "Night Train" Knight pulling the double crac...
Description
Just right of center on the west face, there's a ledge about ten feet wide and five feet high. You can gain the ledge through unprotected but relatively easy climbing at either end.
Cranny starts from the right end of the ledge, and follows the obvious double crack system. It requires an interesting combination of techniques, and protection is adequate but not copious.
Belaying from the first ledge above the ground makes this climb much safer. Otherwise, a leader fall higer up can end up on the leader hitting the second ledge, due to rope stretch.
By Andy Laakmann Site Landlord From: Jackson Hole, WY Apr 7, 2007 rating: 5.8
This climb is surprisingly fun! I found solid gear, and never felt that the protection was dubious (and I'm pretty picky about good gear!) Definitely steep for a 5.8!
By 72HW From: Pasadeana, CA Mar 3, 2008 rating: 5.8
Maybe this one has cleaned up over the years, I found the pro to be bomber and saw little of the above mentioned sand. Went on a nut down low and two BD #1's. Top out moves are powerful to say the least, and the high step layback is tons of fun. Overall, an exciting - if all too short - lead that I will do again!
By Joe M From: Rapid City, SD Jan 11, 2009 rating: 5.8
I thought this climb was a lot easier than it looked (althogh I only toproped it). The pro looked a little sketchy, would love to lead it otherwise. I stemmed most of the way up which probably made it feel easier.
By Colin Parker From: Pasadena, CA May 27, 2009 rating: 5.8
Way more fun than I expected for such a short route! First 5.8 lead.
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