Tiptoe up the crystals protruding from the thin dike in the middle of the face between B-1 and B-2. There are three bolts, and no real need for anything else.
Belay from a strong stance in a niche up and left from the top of the climb, then walk off to the north.
Protection
3 bolts, gear to 3" for the anchor
If you start at the base of B2 (slightly left) you can probably get a piece there before stepping onto the face.
This is a pretty fun slab climb. It looks steep, but nice protrusions appear on the dikes (oops, I mean "women in comfortable shoes") everytime you need them.
By 5.10b4me From: Alhambra, California Nov 29, 2003
A solid 5.7 in my opinion. Bitchin stairway type footholds with nice transfer moves to the next set of stairs with a commiting move to easier ground. Be mindful of your anchors at the top as the rock is quite chossy and untrustworthy. Long slings around the boulders at the top for the anchors are defintely reccomended.
Not a pure slab route like it appears to be from the ground. There are a couple friction moves, but it's mainly face climbing on square edges of the dikes. Fun route.
By 72HW From: Pasadeana, CA Mar 3, 2008 rating: 5.7+
My friend David led this one and I was fine doing it as a TR.
Boy, you think jamming a piece under that flake before the first bolt will help your head, then you see that sucker bend!
By Chris Owen Administrator From: La Crescenta, CA May 24, 2008 rating: 5.7
fun unique climb. A lot of beginners at trashcan but still fun to visit
By Joe M From: Rapid City, SD Jan 11, 2009 rating: 5.8
An ok route. Very similar to many climbs at Mt Rushmore in the Black Hills, SD. Would go as 5.8 there. BTW... thats not quartz on the route, its feldspar (sorry, the geologist cant let that go unsaid!).
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