Trashcan Rock hosts a high concentration of easier routes (5.0 - 5.6), a few moderates (5.7 - 5.9), and a few harder routes (5.10 - 5.11). None of the climbs are super-megaclassics, but it is a popular destination nonetheless. Several routes warrant an 'R' or 'X' rating, and as such there are usually quite a few topropes and the accompanying mayhem of beginner groups. Perhaps a good place to avoid on the weekends.
Descend all routes by walking down the north side.
Getting There
The Quail Springs Day Use Area is the first major landmark on your right if you are driving in from the West Entrance of the Park (i.e., the town of Joshua Tree). It is about 6 miles from the West Entrance kiosk and is signed.
Trashcan Rock lies about 10' from the parking area. It's east face faces the main road.
By 5.10b4me From: Alhambra, California Dec 11, 2002
I happen to think that Quail Springs is a good area for both the beginning climber, and the beginning lead climber. there are also some nice moderate routes to 5.12 that are on the side facing the road.
I took a few groups out to "Trashcan" this past week and noticed that some jerk had scratched something into a rock with a sharp metal object. Another rock had been written on with charcoal (Is that spelled right? My damned spelling sucks I know), there was trash all around, etc... We did what we could to clean the area and I hope others do the same. There is a notice I read at Nomad Ventures yesterday about "Boulderers" causing damage to the surrounding growth and it presents a bad situation for all of us if something does not change for the better. Please, all of us need to do everything we can to help keep the park and other climbing areas clean and as undamaged as possible or the "S_it will (For sure) hit the fan" and us in the face.
Locker: "I took a few groups out to "Trashcan" this past week and noticed that some jerk had scratched something into a rock with a sharp metal object. Another rock had been written on with charcoal ...., there was trash all around, etc... There is a notice I read at Nomad Ventures yesterday about "Boulderers" causing damage to the surrounding growth..."
Oh those boulderers! I didn't know they where permitted to to carry sharp objects. I hear that metal detectors are being installed at the entrance stations next year as part of the post 9-11 "homeland insecurity" measures. You will have to have climbing equipment screened; and leave those swiss army knives at home (what is a boy scout to do?). They hope to catch motorized drill use this way and more closly monitor bolting.
I realized after I had sent my last comment that it appeared that I was blaming people that boulder for being messy and irresponsible. I apologize, as I was not. I too boulder and know that most of us take better care of the land than others. I doubt very seriously if any climber did the writing or scratching on the rocks. Again I apologize to any that may have misunderstood. See Randy............ I even apologize like a good boyscout should (Though I was never allowed to be one due to being a bit of a trouble maker in my youth)
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