Trashcan Rock hosts a high concentration of easier routes (5.0 - 5.6), a few moderates (5.7 - 5.9), and a few harder routes (5.10 - 5.11). None of the climbs are super-megaclassics, but it is a popular destination nonetheless. Several routes warrant an 'R' or 'X' rating, and as such there are usually quite a few topropes and the accompanying mayhem of beginner groups. Perhaps a good place to avoid on the weekends.
Descend all routes by walking down the north side.
Getting There
The Quail Springs Day Use Area is the first major landmark on your right if you are driving in from the West Entrance of the Park (i.e., the town of Joshua Tree). It is about 6 miles from the West Entrance kiosk and is signed.
Trashcan Rock lies about 10' from the parking area. It's east face faces the main road.
The Classics
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Trashcan Rock:
By 5.10b4me From: Alhambra, California Dec 11, 2002
I happen to think that Quail Springs is a good area for both the beginning climber, and the beginning lead climber. there are also some nice moderate routes to 5.12 that are on the side facing the road.
By Adam Stackhouse Administrator From: Escondido, Ca Feb 8, 2010
This is a very family friendly area, offering picnic tables, bbqs, restrooms and zero approach; all just steps from the car.
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