BETA PHOTO: "Robocop Meets The Munchkins". Photo by Blitzo.
Description
This route is the very definition of sporty. Overall the rock quality is good. Traverse in on overhung holds placing a small piece. Continue up finding solid edges to the first bolt. Past the first bolt you will encounter the crux with the physical difficulty gradually decreasing as the mental challenge grows. About 15' past the first bolt the burden eases as you clip the second bolt. Continue passing the final bolt on the right.
Protection
A yellow Alien or equiv to protect start. Three splitshafts w/homemade aluminum hangers to a slung chickenhead anchor. Rap from fixed station.
Many of the routes out here have the same type of hanger. It looks to be aluminum, and is quite thick, perhaps a 1/3", with a rounded top edge. The ones on this route have a circle with a triangle scribed in them. Anyone have any more info on them? I've started to think that they aren't homemade.
By Chris Miller Administrator Jan 15, 2004 rating: 5.10a
There used to be a fixed pin (not necessary) in the horizontal at the start and while the bolts above may somewhat spaced I wouldn't call this route "runout".
The bolt hangers were homemade by Geoff Archer I believe. Geoff was quite active in the late 80's and used to run a resoling business (Gritstone) before selling out to Positive Resoles and becoming a firefighter in the Low Desert.
Is "sporty" considered less runout than "runout"? Or is "runout" less runout than "sporty"? In any case, I think this is one where you want to be solid at the grade.
Chris is correct about the hangers. Dave Stoner and I made hundreds of those things in the late '80's. However, I am a firefighter in Las Vegas and quitely climbing my way through Southern Nevada and the surrounding areas. I have money for REAL hangers now too........................
Munchkinland Crag
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